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When I did my stainless steel D1R clutch hose, I replaced the master and slave with new. I hooked up the Motive, filled it up, applied pressure, cracked the bleeder screw and essentially was done. I was amazed at how easily it was after hearing horror storied about the clutch hydraulics on this car. IIRC, we did fill the new cylinders up prior to beginning the bleeding process as I remember that being a tip from somewhere and/or one of the horror stories......



Sounds like you've got something wonky somewhere.

I still have the D1R stainless hose to install,... is purchasing a new slave and master required? Or, is it BTDT advice (which is pretty much the same thing)?

It's interesting what a wide range of experiences people have had with the whole high pressure line replacement/clutch bleeding procedure. My experience mirrors Darryl's to a "T" - I replaced the master and the slave along with the line, bled it with the Motive, and was done in no time without a hint of a problem. And I didn't know to pre-fill the cylinders. Yeah, there must be something weird going on in Lord_Galva's case - wish I could offer some help.

tama - the problem with only replacing the line is that the other 2 components, and their rubber portions, are just as old as the line was. when you change only the line, those other parts are now subjected to increased pressure, as the line is no longer expanding. on average, when only the line is changed, there is a 50% failure rate of one or the other of the remaining components within about a year.



the master and slave are not expensive, and you have to do most of the work to change them when you change the line. total job time for all 3 is about 2.5 hours.

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1344808790' post='130935']

total job time for all 3 is about 2.5 hours.

[/quote]



That sounds about right - or about one-eightieth the time it took me to rebuild my steering rack <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/ohmy.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

I do not have a vacuum or power bleeder however, when I open the slave valve fluid comes out no problem.

I even got the air out of the lines and the clutch pedal got some of it's feel back but it's still not letting me shift with the car on.

I'm starting to think its the clutch release bearing/ pressure plate problem.

When moving the fork it moves freely towards the slave cylinder to about halfway and stops.

I am going to look for some pics on this forum and others for how the fork should be connected.

Then grab a mirror and a flashlight.

Update



Looking through the inspection hole showed me that there is nothing wrong with the clutch assembly.

While looking at the hole I had someone operate the clutch and the slave barely moved.

I'm betting that there is a big air pocket in the master that is allowing fluid to go by but prevents pressure to build.

Now I'm shopping for a bleeder. Sounds like everyone who used one had no problems doing this same job.



Oh, and I've effectively scared the crap out of my 944 friend who needs a new master <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

first thing to do is buy a motive power bleeder

Yep. Just ordered one. The one with the correct adapter too.

[quote name='Lord_Galva' timestamp='1344838303' post='130949']

Yep. Just ordered one. The one with the correct adapter too.

[/quote]

Care to share where you got it, and what "the correct adapter" means? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> I can't tell you how many times I've bought something for this car, only to find out I needed "Option B" to go along with it. I'm still waiting for longer wheel studs to show up so I can install my nifty new wheels! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/ohmy.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

I seem to recall it's the "European car" option, or something like that...

Would that be "Motive Products Power Bleeder - European - Black Label - 0109"?

Yep, thats the one.



One big issue I had with the bleeder. Wasted over 30 minutes before I realized that the little black fitting that you push into the end hole of the bleeder screw (came with the pressure bleeder) was actually plugging the bypass and wouldn't allow any fluid to escape when I loosened the bleeder screw. I've done a lot of brakes/clutches over the years and never had this issue. The Porsche ones must be interdrilled differently. Once I realized this was the reason I couldn't bleed the system, I found another bleeder hose I'd used in the past, and just pushed the hose directly onto the end of the bleeder screw. Voila fluid flow at last.



I also lowered the front of the car, leaving the rear elevated, as I've seen in other posts. Had replaced the flexible hose, and it took a lot of tries to get the system free of air.

It worked like a charm today. I now have clutch pressure.

However, I have discovered why it was so hard to do this whole operation.

The firewall has a massive crack right where the clutch master is!

This crack eats up the pedal pressure and lowers the amount of force the master can apply.

This has also reduced braking power by a little.

Suggestions outside of welding??????

Just found a brace on Flashes web store.

Flash, can you take some more pics of what it looks like not installed and post them?

Galva,



I have the same problem. The brace has helped some, but at the end of the day you are probably going to ned to repair the crack. I believe that in order to use the firewall brace you will need to have a strut tower brace installed or at least the drivers side bracket for the strut tower as that is what the brace attaches to. I have already talked to Bauer about the firewall repair. Basically it comes down to about a days worth labor to remove and replace everything is the way plus a few bucks for a metal plate and welding materials. The simplest repair it seems is to re-enforce the firewall with a plate that is welded in place. Will be having mine done in the near future.

Luckily, mine was done already... looks like this:





[

correct - you must have the strut tower brace in order to use the firewall brace

Luckily for me I have a strut tower brace.

When my welding friend comes back from his trip I will talk to him about installing a plate.

I need something to get the car mobile again, and this is a good temp fix.

if it is not a Design 1 Racing brace (or with a modification, a KLA), the Firewall Brace will not work.