lol - i'm not saying that it can't be done, but the "kit" is going to be a lot more expensive than i think anybody is going to want to pay for the amount of power it will produce - there is also a lot of work just in order to tear it apart and duplicate it - right now neither of us is set up to do that - i see that as a pretty big roadblock in the way of producing a "kit"
after polling the group and doing a lot of soul searching on this, $5k seems to be the ceiling for a kit of this power level - i just don't see that being possible with a roots setup
it doesn't change my enthusiasm or desire to get your car running right though - i still like the challenge - it just changes what i would do afterward
i hope to be able to get this worked out somewhere around the first of the month - after that it gets pretty dicey around here for about a month - then we are staring at paso
time to get moving again on this for sure
I think the 968 community is waiting anxiously to see the result of Carl's development project.
Some type of Forced Induction system for the 968, with all of the advantages and constrainst that Cral is trying to meet, has been the Holy Grail for a long time and it would be great to see the attainment of that goal.
I'll keep watching to see how it turns out, though I am not likely to take this step (but, never say never).
My next "big" mod is LSD.
Jay
agreed - i'd like to see that come together too - i know in my gut it can work - i am just not sure how he is going to get both the unit and an air cleaner with at least 140 sq inches of surface area in there (and have it be serviceable), without making a new intake manifold, but we'll see, and i wish him luck - that's the only reason i gave up - it pushed the price too high to be marketable
lol - i'm definitely happy to let someone else take the lead on this one - if it works, i'll probably buy it - i'm pretty sure i can get it past CARB
Jeff,
Hopefully things will turn around for you after you get the waterpump sorted out.Let me know if you need anything.
Tim
Tim,
Thank you very much. I really appreciate the offer.
BTW, thanks again for TonyG's number. After playing a little phone tag we finally hooked up. It was great talking with him...for like three hours. Can that boy talk or what? lol. Well, he had some great ideas on the car I'd like to explore. He told me all about how his original design was to use a whipple instead of the eaton. Man, if I could start over, I think I'd love to explore that route. Maybe someday.
Take care,
Jeff
played with the car some more on saturday - swapped out one of the intercooler pipes for some thicker tubing and fixed some gaps that allowed the couplers to billow a bit - also modified the radiator brace to create some more clearance for an air cleaner
the big news though was on the exhaust - the system consisted of the factory header and down tubes, a small aftermarket cat, and then 3" pipe into a muffler - the result was a very loud and resonant sound and an uneven flow - i took one look at it and knew that it was too big and that the muffler was not up to the job of knocking down the sound
the muffler is a rolled end type and is already showing signs of coming apart - that will get swapped out later
what we did do though was remove the 3" pipe and replace it with a 24" long 2.5" diameter perforated resonator
the result was a noticeable increase in torque - the car now "barks third gear" to use jeff's words - i expected this - the reduction in diameter is responsible for that - all too often people put large pipes on the car, thinking that it will flow better, but it almost always screws things up a lot more where you actually drive the car than any good it does up top
the tone is now smooth and even - no more resonance - you can hear yourself inside the car now, but still hear the engine when you get on it
i have a little more work to do on heat management and then next is some programming - he should be good to go in time for the paso robles run
got to play with the car again today - again left better off than it arrived
wrapped the intercooler pipes with the super heat blanket stuff and installed the new version of the heat shield - no other changes - result was a 1/2 lb boost increase and a much smoother running engine - first time we saw it go up to 7k without a hint of hesitation - very nice - runs very cool now
did some housecleaning on the car too - looking pretty spanky - also installed the new short shift kit
this car is really starting to come alive - if i had to guess i would say we are in the neighborhood of 275 ft/lbs and banging on the door of 300 hp
next is to play with the low end mixture to lean it out and get the idle down
then it's suspension time
woohoo!!!
well, we had been chasing down coolant leaks and such for quite a while now - finally got rid of all the little sprays and leaks and such - however, he was still going through coolant like crazy - on top of that, after the water pump went, he could never get the system to bleed (not sure it was ever bled before either)
pulled the plugs to take a look - fine - did a compression check - fine - i decided to do a leakdown test - ruh roh - burbling coming out the bleed screw - definitely a leak from the compression area into the cooling system
the odd thing is that there is no sign of it anywhere - the car runs very strong - the only symptoms are a "chuggy" idle once it's hot and the coolant loss
it would partially explain the inability to idle below 1100 though
so - looks like a new head gasket going in
then maybe we can finally get on to tuning it
doing a suspension on it today though
<!--quoteo(post=71872:date=May 13 2009, 01:46 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ May 13 2009, 01:46 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->doing a suspension on it today though<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
Can't wait to hear the details as to what you're doing to the suspension...
lol
up front are dual adjustable koni gas coilovers (not the koni yellow single adjustable ones everybody runs), 275lb front springs, spherical bearing castor blocks and control arm bushings
in the rear we are doing koni yellows today - new torsions when we get back
custom alignment tomorrow morning
<!--quoteo(post=71898:date=May 13 2009, 08:03 PM:name=flash)-->QUOTE (flash @ May 13 2009, 08:03 PM)
<{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->lol
up front are dual adjustable koni gas coilovers (not the koni yellow single adjustable ones everybody runs), 275lb front springs, spherical bearing castor blocks and control arm bushings
in the rear we are doing koni yellows today - new torsions when we get back
custom alignment tomorrow morning<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
What's meant by dual adjustable (vs. single adjustable) front shocks? And how will the new torsion bars be different from the ones currently in the car? I'm so ignorant about all things suspension related that I'm determined to keep asking you gurus dumb questions until I start to get a clue for when I finally get to make my car more track-worthy. Thanks.
independent compression and rebound settings (as opposed to the koni yellow sports many people use which has only rebound adjustability)
the torsions are larger diameter, therefore stiffer - this is to match the stiffer front springs
update on setup - delaying torsion installation so going with 225 up front for now - will bump up to 275 later to match the 27mm bars
hit a small snag that created a delay
got the shocks, castor blocks, bushings, and struts in though
alignment tomorrow
Thanks. What's the standard front spring rate? My car has 250 lb front springs (no clue what type of shocks, though, other that they are some type of Koni coilovers), and M030 sway bars. I've only driven one other 968 besides mine, and it had the softest ride of anything this side of a Lexus LS. I drove over a speed bump in the guy's apartment complex, and had to do a double-take to make sure I didn't just imagine it was there, because I could barely feel it. In contrast, my car has a nice, firm (but not too stiff) ride.
standard front rate is 160 - standard rear rate is 175
Sorry to be taking this supercharger thread off into suspension-land, but one more question - Ideally, with my 250 lb front springs, should I be using stouter rear torsion bars?
yes - please start a new thread now if you want to go farther
Sure - but I think I'll wait until I get closer to upgrading my suspension. My plan (still more of a dream, I'm afraid, given the state of the economy and the stock market) is to drive up to RS Barn and have Pete make my car more track-worthy, starting with your chassis brace, and including a suspension overhaul. I'll start a new thread looking for advice when that day gets closer.