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Adjusting or Replacing the Alternator or Power Steering Belt
#1

When adjusting or replacing either the Alternator or the Power Steering belt it is EXTREMELY important to first loosen the mounting bolts of the appropriate component.

Then loosen the Jam Nuts on the Adjusting Turnbuckle. One is left hand thread, and one is right hand thread.

Then adjust the Turnbuckle to the desired tension. (The belt should move about 1/2" in and out.)

Then lock down the Jam Nuts.

Then tighten the mounting bolts to the correct torque. (M8 bolts get 15 ft/lb - M10 get 33 ft/lb)

Failure to follow this procedure will result in broken adjusters and mounting ears of the components. This will be a costly and bothersome mistake.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#2

Can you check the belt tension by hand or do you need the Porsche tension tool?

Is the exact torque setting critical - Do I need to get a torque wrench to change the belts?

Thanks!
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#3

by hand is fine if you have a sensitive enough hand - pretty standard tension on the power steering (tight enough so it doesn't squeal) - fairly tight on the AC belt though



as for the torque wrench, if you over tighten the bolts, you'll be sorry - so, use your best judgement as to the accuracy of your arm
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#4

Be prepared to adjust serp. belt a couple of times, it tends to relax after a couple of runs, especially running A.C.
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#5

How many miles do the belts take to stretch out completely?



I put them on and drove 60 miles- everything seems happy but i want to wait to put the bottom pan back until the final tension adjustment.



Thanks!
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#6

it depends on revs, heat, yada yada - typically though less than 500 miles
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#7

Just to clarify - when you say "loosen the mounting bolts" do you mean the mounting bolts at each of the swivel ends of the adjusters, or do you mean the swivel/pivot bolts that attach each component to the engine block?
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#8

you need to loosen ALL of the bolts, including the ones that attach the component to the engine, and not just the adjuster bolts.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#9

And remove one bolt at one end of the turnbuckle once the turnbuckle is slightly loosened and let it swing down. You can then swing the AC or alternator out of the way, remove the belt and reinstall. The turnbuckle should only be used for final tensioning on reinstall.
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#10

[quote name='Eric_Oz_S2' timestamp='1340106768' post='128311']

And remove one bolt at one end of the turnbuckle once the turnbuckle is slightly loosened and let it swing down. You can then swing the AC or alternator out of the way, remove the belt and reinstall. The turnbuckle should only be used for final tensioning on reinstall.

[/quote]



Very good point, saves a lot of time!
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#11

Sorry to revive an old thread but as I'm gonna do this pretty soon I have some questions. I already have the correct continental belts to both the altinator and the power steering.





If I get it right, I need to loosen all the bolts on the components taht are attached to the belt? So that means the altinator and AC compressor? Then loosen all the bolts on the wheels and gears?

Unless there's a picture guide somewhere that I'm too stupid to find in my searches. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" />





I have a buddy who works at a VAG dealer workshop. Maybe he'll help me out.
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1992 Guards Red 968 Coupe: Koni Dampers, TechArt Springs, Janspeed exhaust, Airbox mod, Club Sport seats and rear seat delete.
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#12

"correct continental belts" - lol - now there's an oxymoron if i ever saw one



just the mounting bolts for any unit that moves as a result of the tensioner. that allows the units to move freely, and not stress the ears. then adjust for tension. then tighten back up the mounting bolts
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#13

Sounds pretty simple. I can do this from either under the car or from the engine bay right?





And aren't belts from continental alright to use? They should be OEM from what I've heard.
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1992 Guards Red 968 Coupe: Koni Dampers, TechArt Springs, Janspeed exhaust, Airbox mod, Club Sport seats and rear seat delete.
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#14

most mechanics refer to them as "rubber bands". they tend to stretch. not a really big deal on power steering and alternator, as those aer pretty easy to deal with, but a huge issue on timing and balance belts. gates or dayco only there (i prefer, and based on numerous report others, have had the best luck with gates).
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#15

My current timing belt is actually a continental. Hmm, maybe I should hurry the project to change that as well then. It's not due for a change in some time though, and it looks alright from what I can see.



But on the power steering and alternator I'll be fine with useing them for a while? The ones I have on right now look pretty shabby and old, and they make the most annoying whining sound so I'm dying to replace them.
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1992 Guards Red 968 Coupe: Koni Dampers, TechArt Springs, Janspeed exhaust, Airbox mod, Club Sport seats and rear seat delete.
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#16

FYI, the current Dayco T and B belts have squared teeth, not rounded like Gates. After seeing these, my mechanic recommends installing Gates. He is not a fan of square toothed belts, mostly because of the noise.
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1992 968 Cabriolet

Volvo S60 Turbo AWD

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#17

regarding timing/balance belt change, remember that it is years, not miles, that are key. 3 years in climates that range in temp. perhaps up to 4 years in warmer climates, assuming you are using gates. all bets are off with conti. too many variables.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



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#18

I have to double check but I think it was replaced in 2012. I've heard everything from 3-8 years. Someone even said 80k kilometers.

Gonna send a Porsche dealer an email and ask what they'd reccomend.
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1992 Guards Red 968 Coupe: Koni Dampers, TechArt Springs, Janspeed exhaust, Airbox mod, Club Sport seats and rear seat delete.
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#19

trust us. we've been dealing with this the hard way all too often. the owner's manual, and the dealers are very wrong. we know way too many people who have guessed wrong, delayed changing their belts, thinking they didn't have enough miles on them, yet they were old, and consequently suffered the very expensive consequences. the problem is that it's an interference motor. when the timing belt goes, it takes the valves with it. cost to repair is then about $5k.



another issue is the balance belt. it is supposed to be checked and/or retensioned every year. most people don't do that. failure to do that has resulted in the belt getting loose (and it's already very loose to begin with) which allows it to either jump a tooth, or worse get buggered and then take out the timing belt.



the interval is 3 years or 45k, whichever comes FIRST. in warmer climates, and using gates belts, you can stretch that out a bit. if you are tracking the car, it is less, due to the increased heat.
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94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com



"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."
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#20

Prefer recommendations from this forum to your local P car dealer.
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