1
winterizing your car
Started by flash, Dec 05 2009 09:48 AM
9 replies to this topic
#1
Posted 05 December 2009 - 09:48 AM
winter is here in force, and the temperatures are dropping - many will neglect their car at this time, and could end up regretting it - some things to look at for the cold months:
make sure your tires are at the right pressures - colder temps drop pressures as much as 5lbs - they don't heat up as much on the road either, so you need to inflate them to a higher cold temp than you would during the summer - 2lbs over your summer temp usually does it, but check your pressures to be sure
carefully inspect your tread wear - this is NOT the time to have questionable tires - inside corner wear is your enemy here - tires that are near their wear bars on the inside will not shed water like they need to and you could lose control of the car
your oil can be an issue in the winter - if your temps get down around or below freezing, you may need to lower the viscosity of the oil to allow for easier starts and better lubrication at cold temps - at a bare minimum make sure the oil is clean - contaminants in the oil do not mix and suspend as well when it is cold, and could easily get on your bearings and do damage
check your coolant - make sure you have a good 50/50 blend of phosphate free coolant - if you have not changed it in the last 2 years, do it - coolant loses its abilities as it ages
check your windshield washer fluid - make sure it contains an anti-freezing agent in it - the worst thing you can do is use fluid that freezes - this can be very dangerous, as it can completely obscure the windshield at exactly the wrong moment
inspect your accessory belts - rubber hardens when it is cold - belts also tend to get loose when they are cold - we tend to ignore them in the winter because we aren't using the AC which generally tells us when the belt is loose - check the tension and condition of those belts - getting stuck because of a loose alternator belt sucks
check your battery - if you have a serviceable battery make sure the water is topped up - use distilled water only - make sure the terminals are clean and tight - use baking soda and water to remove corrosion
carry flares or some bright red reflective markers in case of a breakdown - visibility in the winter tends to be bad, and it is often dark this time of year - if you break down, make sure other drivers can see you - don't count on your flashers - you may have a dead battery
pack a warm coat in the car - freezing in a car on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck really SUCKS
make sure your tires are at the right pressures - colder temps drop pressures as much as 5lbs - they don't heat up as much on the road either, so you need to inflate them to a higher cold temp than you would during the summer - 2lbs over your summer temp usually does it, but check your pressures to be sure
carefully inspect your tread wear - this is NOT the time to have questionable tires - inside corner wear is your enemy here - tires that are near their wear bars on the inside will not shed water like they need to and you could lose control of the car
your oil can be an issue in the winter - if your temps get down around or below freezing, you may need to lower the viscosity of the oil to allow for easier starts and better lubrication at cold temps - at a bare minimum make sure the oil is clean - contaminants in the oil do not mix and suspend as well when it is cold, and could easily get on your bearings and do damage
check your coolant - make sure you have a good 50/50 blend of phosphate free coolant - if you have not changed it in the last 2 years, do it - coolant loses its abilities as it ages
check your windshield washer fluid - make sure it contains an anti-freezing agent in it - the worst thing you can do is use fluid that freezes - this can be very dangerous, as it can completely obscure the windshield at exactly the wrong moment
inspect your accessory belts - rubber hardens when it is cold - belts also tend to get loose when they are cold - we tend to ignore them in the winter because we aren't using the AC which generally tells us when the belt is loose - check the tension and condition of those belts - getting stuck because of a loose alternator belt sucks
check your battery - if you have a serviceable battery make sure the water is topped up - use distilled water only - make sure the terminals are clean and tight - use baking soda and water to remove corrosion
carry flares or some bright red reflective markers in case of a breakdown - visibility in the winter tends to be bad, and it is often dark this time of year - if you break down, make sure other drivers can see you - don't count on your flashers - you may have a dead battery
pack a warm coat in the car - freezing in a car on the side of the road waiting for a tow truck really SUCKS
#2
Posted 05 December 2009 - 09:52 AM
Also turn on the AC a few times over the winter to keep
the seals from getting hard.
the seals from getting hard.
#3
Posted 05 December 2009 - 06:09 PM
The window defrost button on the left side of the climate control will do the same thing. It also gets the moisture out of the car when it is raining and cold.
Brian
Brian
#4
Posted 06 December 2009 - 01:38 PM
I could be wrong but I don't think that the defrost max button turns on the A/C. Just heat on full and all air directed to window.
#5
Posted 06 December 2009 - 05:07 PM
Kim,
Mine defrost max windshield button drags the rpm's down. I have not looked at the compressor to confirm, but since running the AC would draw moisture from the cabin, it might be so.
Brian
Mine defrost max windshield button drags the rpm's down. I have not looked at the compressor to confirm, but since running the AC would draw moisture from the cabin, it might be so.
Brian
#6
Posted 08 December 2009 - 01:20 PM
might drag the rpm down just because the fan speed is on high and more current is needed.
#7
Posted 08 December 2009 - 01:55 PM
A/c on with defrost, confirmed
Ken
Ken
#8
Posted 18 November 2011 - 04:35 AM
I have never gone into purchasing a car with the knowledge it will only be used during the warm weather months. What is the gas recommendation for storing a car for 5 months in a non-heated garage? For daily winter use I understand it is best to keep gas tanks full. But for winter storage I wonder if this could be a problem as doesn't gas turn into a gel or breakdown relatively quickly?
#9
Posted 18 November 2011 - 06:21 AM
Tank should be Full...may owners add Stabile. I drive my car through the winter (only on clear days, low salt on the roads) to keep everything lubed. It is not reccomended that you just "turn the car over", if you start it, you should drive it (say 40-50 miles).
Regards,
Jay
Regards,
Jay
#10
Posted 18 November 2011 - 12:38 PM
What is this "winter" of which you speak?
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