Bi-Coastal Detail day rescheduled - Sat May 19
#41
Posted 21 May 2012 - 10:31 AM
#42
Posted 21 May 2012 - 10:47 AM
#43
Posted 21 May 2012 - 01:36 PM
#44
Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:18 PM
#45
Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:41 PM
#46
Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:44 PM
Was good seeing you on Saturday. Nice weather, How To from Darryl on temp bulb replacement/front panel disassembling, removal and adjusting of rear lights, intro of Adam's products. All free of charge:). Ahh, nearly forgot - free live consultation from the West coast by Flash regarding cracking upper strut mounts. Though, to be honest I still couldn't see any cracking on BeBe mounts no matter how hard I looked. They must still be fresh after 20 years or my eyesight starts to le me down...
I guess "buying a wheel" means Porter Cable or a similar polishing machine.
#47
Posted 21 May 2012 - 05:51 PM
#48
Posted 21 May 2012 - 06:07 PM
Darryl, I use the Adams Waterless Wash and Detail Spray, but then what do I put over it?
There are three LSP (last step products):
Brilliant Glaze - quick on/off, dazzling shine, short durability....1 week or so.....great for quick fluffs before an event or "date night"
Buttery Wax - fairly easy on/off, nice shine, a few weeks to maybe 2 months or so durability depending on indoors/outdoors and weather
Americana Paste Wax - true white carnauba wax, apply thin and take off as soon as it hazes (or wish you would have), great shine, longer durability than Buttery
My Cab and Targa vehicles usually get wiped down with Waterless Wash then followed by a quick coat of Brilliant Glaze after every few days of driving when I put them back indoors. The Cayenne and Coupe will get a regular two bucket wash followed by a coat of Buttery every couple of weeks since they are outside most of the time and wife has been daily driving the Cayenne and I have been using the Coupe more often testing out the new belts and water pump!
Of course, all of the above assumes that you have a sealer down first as a good starting base for protecting the surface.
- Darryl
#49
Posted 21 May 2012 - 06:13 PM
Yeah, a buffer, basically an angle grinder I believe. Porter cables are nice.....not exactly cheap though. Im still getting to know the local detail shops. When I find one I like, I usually just pay to have it done. Dont do it very often, been years since I had the 86 done....cant see a film.
Nope, not an angle grinder! It is an oscillating only machine, also not to be confused with a regular rotary polisher. The Porter Cable 7424XP is the best and safest machine to start out with when you're new to machine polishing. They can be had for about 125.00 shipped to your door.
The film on Grand Prix White will probably not come off from claying alone. You'll need some sort of polish to get rid of that but it can probably be achieved by hand....it'll just take longer and make your shoulder sore!
- Darryl
#50
Posted 21 May 2012 - 06:29 PM
Any suggestions? Im gonna dr colorchip it, and polish it soon one way or another.
Nope, not an angle grinder! It is an oscillating only machine, also not to be confused with a regular rotary polisher. The Porter Cable 7424XP is the best and safest machine to start out with when you're new to machine polishing. They can be had for about 125.00 shipped to your door.
The film on Grand Prix White will probably not come off from claying alone. You'll need some sort of polish to get rid of that but it can probably be achieved by hand....it'll just take longer and make your shoulder sore!
- Darryl
#51
Posted 22 May 2012 - 08:56 AM
http://www.adamspoli...ar-wax-kit.aspx
or
http://www.adamspoli...lish-combo.aspx
- Darryl
#52
Posted 22 May 2012 - 11:04 AM
side note - get the porter cable if you're a beginner and want diy pro results
#53
Posted 22 May 2012 - 12:16 PM
Correct on the process.
Always remember that any sort of paint sealer needs to go on bare "paint", either true paint or clear coat. If you put a sealer on top of a wax, it bonds to the wax and will be gone as the wax gradually fades away, so you're wasting time and product trying to seal the wax. You want to seal the paint.
Glaze and wax can be interchangeable depending on the desired results and intended purpose of the glaze. If you want to hide any remaining, small imperfections, the solids that the glaze will leave behind will help hide those. If you're pleased with the surface, you can just go straight to wax after letting the sealer cure. I use Adam's Brilliant Glaze as my maintenance routine as described in the previous post.....I love that stuff!
- Darryl
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