[TheMirror]

Geez, and I thought getting good wheels for a WRX was difficult. Try the 5x130 bolt pattern on for size, rookie.



I want 17's, Not 18's. Yet, 993 CUP wheels for this car are a cooool $3500 (brand new factory) from Wheel Enhancement.



Yes, I know, "buy 'em used" but then I have to get them inspected for track use....which is labor cost and always a mental 'are ya sure' question mark for a safety nut like me.



At the end of the day, not much choice that I'm seeing with the 17s now, except for factory Porsche wheels.



How much are 17x9 Fikse FM5s these days? What are my other options?

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[Mark]

You can get custom wheels from CCW for appreciably less than that.



On edit not sure about 17's though the classic should be available in 17

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[TheMirror]

[quote name='Mark' date='Mar 29 2006, 05:31 AM']You can get custom wheels from CCW for appreciably less than that.



On edit not sure about 17's though the classic should be available in 17

[right][post="18185"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Wow, very cool. Thanks Mark!

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[Greimann]

Tire Rack has some Twist knockoffs in 17's.

Tire Rack

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[flash]

fikse, hre, and kinesis modular wheels will each set you back at least a grand a pop in 17, more in 18 (as an example, my hre 547r set was well over 5 grand - then i still had to deal with tires)



cast rims are your best shot at a decent price - a new set of mille miglia replicas of whatever style will be about 1200



there is a set of used ones for sale now

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[ether_joe]

is there really that much of a concern for used wheels?



I am budgeting $600 for my 17" upgrade option. Wheel Enhancement quoted me $1000 for Boxster twists less a $400 trade in for my stock 16" C2's.

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[flash]

used wheels can be a problem if you are racing - many classes require new wheels every 2 years - this is gradually becoming more common



otherwise, a good inspection is generally fine



1000 for those wheels is cheap - are they originals or replicas?



check the front width - i would not go with a narrower rim if you plan to push the car at all



check the weight - heavier rims mean more wear on suspension components, less acceleration, and poorer handling



none of this means a hoot though on a commuter car, so it's really about what you plan to do with the car

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[ether_joe]

[quote name='flash' date='Mar 29 2006, 11:55 AM']used wheels can be a problem if you are racing - many classes require new wheels every 2 years - this is gradually becoming more common



otherwise, a good inspection is generally fine



1000 for those wheels is cheap - are they originals or replicas? 



check the front width - i would not go with a narrower rim if you plan to push the car at all



check the weight - heavier rims mean more wear on suspension components, less acceleration, and poorer handling



none of this means a hoot though on a commuter car, so it's really about what you plan to do with the car[/quote]



Dan @ WE says they're used Factory wheels. Also advised me I'd need a spacer - this is what you're referring to re the narrower rim?



Over the course of the next few years I'll probably track 2 x a year and auto cross 6x a year or so.



Ah - looking at my email more closely - a set of these wheels 'refinished to original condition' is $1750.

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[flash]

no - that is an offset thing



for the record, i HATE spacers - it must be a porsche thing, because everyone, and i mean everyone, i used to race with hated them too - extra weight, bad balance, less available threads on the lugs - they are dangerous, and they were illegal in SCCA when i was racing - not sure about now - porsche did some very odd things like that - aluminum lug nuts??? also illegal for racing because they are also dangerous



i know plenty of people who run spacers and aluminum nuts with no issues - i'll never do it though - i've seen spacers cause problems - not a pretty picture to see a car sliding out of control because a wheel blew off



when i was referring to width, i meant that the 7.5" stock 17 for the 968, versus the 7" for the boxster (i think that's what they are) - the 968 was given the 7.5 to keep in like with the styling of the 911, which needed larger rear rims becaue it had huge oversteer issues - with the 968, they figured that people had gotten used to that layout, and didn't want to rock the boat - the 968 really wants a wider rim up front to help cure the understeer



again, none of this really means anything on a purely street car - if you're planning to push the car hard though, or take it to the track, then i would get a wider rim up front, and not run spacers (at least not without longer studs, and the spacers themselves being hubcentric), and run steel lug nuts

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[ether_joe]

all right thanks - great information - I shall put it in the blender and blend it up. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[TheMirror]

[quote name='flash' date='Mar 29 2006, 12:19 PM']the 968 was given the 7.5 to keep in like with the styling of the 911, which needed larger rear rims becaue it had huge oversteer issues - with the 968, they figured that people had gotten used to that layout, and didn't want to rock the boat - the 968 really wants a wider rim up front to help cure the understeer





[right][post="18210"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Ah, interesting. I had wondered why they did that. Different size rims on a car with 50/50 weight distribution doesn't make that much sense unless that car has huge horsepower. How would a 17x8 front and 17x9 rear setup do?

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[flash]

probably much like my 10" rear and 9" front - much better balance and less understeer - i would have gone the same size all around, except i could not get a 10" up front, and i didn't want to go with less than i could get in the rear

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