[Cloud9...68]

On top of the stumble issue I'm battling with my car, I noticed today that the voltmeter gauge was reading just above the 12 V (maybe 12.3). The alternator is relatively new, so I'm thinking about replacing the voltage regulator. Paragon has a Bosch unit for $47, and an "aftermarket" one for $15.51. Is it worth paying extra for the Bosch? Thanks.

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[968 Cab]

You should be fine with aftermarket - in fact, see if you can get the one that "Iceshark" over on Rennlist supplies for his "full boat" HL upgrade. He suppllies an adjustable voltage regulator:



TRANSPO PN 1B373A as shown in the photo below. IIRC, Dan sold these for around $20.

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[Silver BLT]

The cheaper one works just fine ~14V.

Napa has one that I cross-referanced for out cars and it kinda works......some ...er...modifications are needed. (grinding). Don't buy the Napa one though, it blew out its spring when I was installing it and the brush fell off the end into my alternator. Had to take it completely off to shake it out...grrrrrrr.

An adjustable one sounds great if you have acc. like an Amp or extra lights.



Silver BLT

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[MAryland968]

I'm looking for another adjustable voltage regulator like what Iceshark used to sell. Does anyone know of a website or facility that has these for sale?



Thanks,

Phil

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[flash]

a note on the bosch vs generic regulator - i installed a generic one and my alternator started putting out 15.5 volts at 5k and over - i swapped back to the bosch and back to normal



i was only changing it because i thought i might be a touch low and i had a new one in a box here



i will be installing a new bosch

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[josephsc]

I've sourced Transpo IB373A from a Volvo reseller guy in the past: Dave Barton. I believe he normally stocks IB372A, which is missing a small capacitor. My understanding is that the capacitor isn't really needed because our battery acts as a large one.



The Transpo (aftermarket) voltage regulators are adjustable -- so if not properly adjusted, you can get strange output. If you don't need it to be adjustable, Bosch might be the better option.

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[flash]

the one i got from paragon is a KAE part number 1.109.220



it has no adjustment capability i can find



i will look into this other one, because i would like .5v over the output of the bosch

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[968rz]

What about checking/cleaning the dash grounds, could be that simple. I would start by put a digital volt meter on to verify what is really happening.

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[Robby]

Hey guys- I realize this thread is pretty old now, but I thought I might reply just in case any of this info is needed by anyone else, or, if anyone of you still need to know. I'm NOT any kind of authority on this, but I have had a little bit of experience w/the regulators & 951's particularly. I have ~20 of the adj Transpo units of Dan Wray's if anyone needs. They are adj b/t 13.8 & 15.0 - this is about perfectly centered- it's a little flat head screwdriver type thing you twist. The stock Bosch units are supposed to be >$100 & the adj unit does help a little w/voltage (if set higher than 13.8) & from what I've been told, the 14.4 range is safe. Also, every single regulator I've seen, even from cars w/as few as 60k miles, have had worn out brushes- by buying a new regulator, you will be replacing these, so that's a benefit.

Still, one of the biggest probs causing voltage loss is undergrounding. These cars are well known to be undergrounded & a simple $20 IceShark supplemental ground can sometimes make all the dif in the world there- not to mention checking & cleaning factory ones, etc, as Rick mentioned.

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[jeffski1]

You say you have ~20 units? Are they for sale then? I'd be interested. How much?

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[Robby]

<!--quoteo(post=67646:date=Feb 23 2009, 05:43 PM:name=jeffski1)-->QUOTE (jeffski1 @ Feb 23 2009, 05:43 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->You say you have ~20 units? Are they for sale then? I'd be interested. How much?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Hey Jeff- sorry I couldn't reply earlier- I was at work & could not get on the board from that comp for some reason. Anyway, yes, I have somewhere around 20 of the Transpo AVR's. I started w/35 or so & sold a few of them- this was all Dan Wray's stock & they're new & in unopened boxes. I know I have at LEAST 15. Are you wanting ALL of them or just a couple or what? I've been doing them for $20 + S&H, as that's what Dan did, but I've also sold them for a little less when added to larger IceShark orders, like complete battery cable kits &/or supplemental grounds, etc, as I'm still selling all of that stuff too. Let me know how many you really want & I'll look up my actual cost on them from way back when I'll be glad to work something out w/you...

You can also e-mail me at: rkc951 AT yahoo.com

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[flash]

thanks to robby, i have this regulator, and it was exactly what i needed to bring the voltage up just enough to keep me out of deficit mode when i was idling - this was a problem due to the power pulleys

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[jeffski1]

No worries Robby. I know I definitely want one for myself. However, we are having a couple of 968 gatherings here in SoCal, so let me see how many other guys might be interested in one as well and I'll just make a single order. Give me a few days to drum up some interest.

BTW, what is the battery kit? Iceshark was just a tad before my time, so I am not familiar with his kit. Does it just change out the cables or does it allow a relocation of the battery to the back of the car (something I'd love to do).

Cheers,
Jeff

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[flash]

lol - replaces the likely corroded and worn main cables in the engine bay

i'm still working on the "kit" to relocate the battery - robby has been patiently waiting for me to finish that - ironically i just pulled the drawing this morning to send to the sheet metal guys to make up a unit - i'll blast that out now and get the parts list to robby - when you come over, we can then fit the new tray and i can work out the hangers for it - that will complete the kit

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[jeffski1]

Aha! Sounds good.

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[Robby]

Hey guys- yes, the IceShark battery cable kit was a way to replace worn out battery cables & keep battery ins same location. Several 944's had some underhood fires resulting from worn out insulation on battery cables- this is the main reason why Dan (IceShark) made them, but he overbuilt them, so they would give less resistance (voltage drop) & allow brighter headlights, better running accessories, etc. They were well received. The kit includes:

1 - 1awg main [+] battery to starter cable
1 - 4awg main [+] starter to alternator cable
1 - 4awg supp [+] battery to fuse box cable
1 - 1awg main [-] 2-pc cable (2-pc design like factory)
1 - supplemental ground cable

All but the shorter of the [-] cable was covered w/ExFlex fiberglass sleeving & the main starter to alternator [+] & the supp [+] cables were fused. I've continued to build these kits & each year, hte stock pieces get older & more worn out, so I emphasize checking the factory cables for wear- you'd need a mirror & a good light & possibly some help, checking the main areas- like the main [+] cable from batt to starter- where it leads behind the engine, out of sight- also the longer of the 2-pc [-] in same area. Also, occasionally there is wear in the starter to alt [+] cable.

As for rear mounting- I love the idea & have been talking w/Flash about this for awhile- thanks for letting me know what's going on Bob- I hope it all comes together soon. I have redone the rear cable kit part & am about to have thet newest kit completed. My battery is in the spare tire well- I like your location better, but it does require your bracket. My bracket is hacked together, but I've noticed a def dif in weight dist for sure... really cool...

Let me know on the adj vot regs & we'll work it all out...

thanks,
Robby

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[DayDreamer]

In terms of Battery location, the RHD cars have them in rear left cubby (944 & 968). Pretty neat, until the the battery goes flat and you have to crawl into the back to open the boot (Coupe).

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[Robby]

<!--quoteo(post=67713:date=Feb 25 2009, 07:13 AM:name=DayDreamer)-->QUOTE (DayDreamer @ Feb 25 2009, 07:13 AM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->In terms of Battery location, the RHD cars have them in rear left cubby (944 & 968). Pretty neat, until the the battery goes flat and you have to crawl into the back to open the boot (Coupe).<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->

Yes, the RHD cars are partly my inspiration, alongside the 928. Of course, putting it in the center spare tire well makes it easy to get too & it's slightly lower & definitely further rearward. Pros & cons all over the place- everything is a comprimise, right....? Do you have any pics of a rear mounted battery in a cab?

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[DayDreamer]

<!--quoteo(post=67756:date=Feb 26 2009, 02:12 PM:name=Robby)-->QUOTE (Robby @ Feb 26 2009, 02:12 PM) <{POST_SNAPBACK}><!--quotec-->Do you have any pics of a rear mounted battery in a cab?<!--QuoteEnd--><!--QuoteEEnd-->
I'll take some this weekend, its pretty much the same as the coupe, in the cubby under the carpet flap. Just remember, if you move the battery to the back and it goes flat you can't get to it unless you have a manual pull cable inside the rear side fender accessible though the side air vent at the door opening. RHD cars have the cable, i'm not sure about the LHD guys.

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[Anchorman]

LHD cars also have the cable - but accessing it with a dead battery assumes you can get the door unlocked, which should work, but I've never tried. It's been so long since I unlocked the door with a key that I don't remember if that's purely mechanical, or if the key simply actuates the electric mechanism to unlock. However, since the release cable you describe is there, I guess the issue is no different than what you have with the stock battery location, because you still need access to the car's interior to release the hood.

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