[Johannvb]

As a precaution and because all the rubber on our cars are comming to the end of it's useful life,I would like to replace all the vacuum lines on my car. I am curious to know if this picture from PET shows all the vacuum lines on a 968.

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[94'968]

no theres more than whats in that diagram. i just replaced mine with the kit from lindsey racing. all did was find one vacuum line, follow it and cut a piece of the new line the same length and just do a direct replacement. did that for each line, worked out great!

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[jfrahm]

That looks like the fuel system lines but I do not see the line to the vacuum canister or the brake booster or the evap system (which I suppose you also have in Europe?)

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[Johannvb]

I had a look on Lindsey racing's shop. I assume you are refering to these http://www.lindseyracing.com/LR/Parts/94...MLINE.html

Their kit contains metal pieces. I am not sure I like that. Can I just order the "Y" and "L" pieces from Porsche and combine it with the Lindsey Racing pipes?

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[DaveN]

The metal "T" won't fatugue with time or heat. One would think this is better, wouldn't one?

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[SILVY968]

Don't forget the vacuum lines in the HVAC system. They have the same issues. Don't ask me how I know!
PET illustration 813-25
Brian

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[Johannvb]

"The metal "T" won't fatugue with time or heat. One would think this is better, wouldn't one?"

True, but I like to keep my car stock looking.

Thanks for the tip Brain, I am adding that picture here too.

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[John]

Johannvb, do you find the PET diagrams accurately describe your car's vac. line routing? These diagrams are the same as the ones in the 968_US version of PET, but I have found they do not describe what's in my '94. If your car agrees with the diagrams, then this must be a US-Europe difference, and someone compiling the US PET screwed up. In any event, for those interested, here's a sketch of the routing in my '94, which I made a while back while hunting down a vac. leak.

My Vac. Diagram Legend

1 - front of Manifold
2 - top of Throttle Body
3 - Fuel Pressure Regulator
4 - rear of Manifold
5 - Tank Vent Valve I
6 - Brake Booster
7 - Canister next to battery
8 - Check Valve in bundle along top of firewall
9 - Heater Control Valve next to oil filter
10 - firewall bulkhead feedthroughs
11 - oil separator
12 - under cowl cover

A - rubber: hose, connector, elbow, tee
B - larger diam. hose
C - black plastic pipe (red or green at bulkheads)
D - Heat valve
E - Blend valve
F - HVAC vac. motors

   

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[blue968]

HI Guys,

This may be a stupid question but is there is any way to turn the heat off in our cars?? The reason why I ask is because my HCV (heater control valve) is not closing with the vacuum. When I turn my temperature dial all the way down toward cool I can see a damper in the vent close but when I check my HCV is open. I bought a new HCV and attached it directly to the vacuum line and it didn't close either. SO its either a bad vacuum line or leak, or I don't know how to turn off the heat which would allow vacuum to the HCV.

Thanks

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[blue968]

Hi Guys,

I found my problem [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/biggrin.gif[/img] , I had a vacuum line disconnected at the vacuum reservoir which is located next to the battery.
It is working fine now.

Thanks

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[Scott Collins]

In reading all of the manuals and diagrams, I think I know what is connected to what. But like a few things 968, I'm not 100%...



Question: does the vacuum line (thin) from the oil seperator connect to the intake manifold at the location near the dipstick, where you can see the nipple pointing straight up? This location, when standing in front of the car and facing the engine, is to the right of the oil separator by about 1' and lower by about 4". Make sense? My vacuum line got loose from the oil separator, and want to make sure that I get it back to when it belongs.



And also, are there any vacuum line connections under the intake manifold in places you can not see from above the engine?



Thanks for responding if you are familiar with these connections.



Scott

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[Lear35A]

Here's a picture showing the line you are referring to. The 90deg rubber piece goes on top of the oil separator. You can see here where it connects to the manifold...just in front of the vacuum line going to the brake booster.

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[Scott Collins]

Lear35a,



Awesome - that's what I thought. Thanks!



Are there any vacuum connections under the manifold? I had this all apart this summer and feel pretty dumb to not remember.



Thanks again.



Scott

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[DaveN]

Go ahead and feel dumb, ask away. I have mine apart for the second time and come spring I hope I remember everything I took off otherwise I will be looking at this threat.

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[Scott Collins]

Let the fun begin. When replacing the vacuum line to the top of the oil separator, 1 hour ago, I noticed that the connecting rubber elbow had a pretty good crack in it, so I decided to pry it off. That did not go so well, because the elbow did not want to come off and I ended up prying with a screwdriver, which resulted in snapping off the plastic male end tip on top of the oil separator. Since it's under the manifold, it's impossible to really get to it with your hands. Now there is just a little hole there, and no way to connect the vacuum line. Now I am thinking that if I can get the area cleaned up, get a toothpick through the piece and get it back in position and centered, maybe some JB Weld can get it back into position and allow me to reconnect the vacuum line. Does anyone think that would work? I'm just not sure that the JB Weld will be strong enough to hold it in place when I have to press the elbow back on. Otherwise, I've got to install a new oil separator, which means pulling the intake off. I thought I would never have to do that again....

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[tamathumper]

I suspect there's not enough surface area, and too much vibration, for JB Weld to hold and last. You really have to clean the parts for JB Weld, too, and that's going to be hard down there, isn't it?

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[flash]

the "good news" is that i just returned a new AOS to sunset, so you won't have to pay the shipping to get it here from germany, since that is the only place they keep them. it's too bad this happened now. had it have happened sooner, i might have been able to save the 20% restocking fee, and the expedited shipping from germany, which together was over $100.



p.s. the unit is about $400

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[Scott Collins]

That's my thinking - I just don't know exactly what happens when the vacuum line is not connected from the oil separator to the intake. Anyone know?



Flash - thanks for the tip - I will hunt for a used one before dropping $400 - that money is reserved for the splitter!

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[flash]

you suck oil from the crankcase into the intake in large quantities.



by the way, don't replace the tiny hard line with normal vacuum hose either. same problem.



while i can't figure out exactly how it does it, the tiny amount of vacuum manages to pull the vapors out of the crankcase and send them into the intake where they are burned off. the AOS does this without a vacuum leak too. i have been chasing an oil burning problem now for quite a while, and have investigated the AOS as the culprit, and purchased 2 of them trying to figure this out.

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[DaveN]

For what it's worth if you try to clean and cement the broken piece you can use JB Kwik instead of JB Weld. It set's up in minutes not hours and still has the strength you need. You will have to remove your intake manifold (which isn't that hard) and slather on the JB to support the broken piece but it does make a strong support if you can get a clean surface.

Good time to clean the <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym>, replace the 2 O-rings and change the coolant as you will have to bleed the system after.

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