04-04-2013, 12:38 AM
Back when I was still naturally aspirated, RS Barn suggested a Thermal Intake Gasket. I knew about these things already, and knew that there were successes with this sort of item on other cars, in terms of reducing intake heat transfer from the manifold to the head. Basically it acts as an insulator and transfers less heat. Seemed like a good idea, so when I decided to supercharge the engine, I bought one and installed it as directed.
Unfortunately, whether due to the material, or due to the loose tolerances in the holes, or both, the gasket did not hold up under boost. I developed a leak, which showed up as a small vacuum leak (about 2" of mercury), and caused a lean condition. Fortunately I caught this before I ran it lean and did any damage. Upon inspection, I found that the bolts didn't retain torque, and the gasket pattern from the manifold didn't quite match up right, leaving a very thin contact spot on the #4 cylinder.
Mine is not the only car to experience this problem. I now know of 2 others, and there may be more. One of them may have had the problem contribute to a detonation condition which blew a motor. (It is purely a theory at this time, and more investigation would need to be done to determine if that was the case)
Unless you have a vacuum gauge hooked up, or notice odd idle condition, or use an A/F meter and notice that things are lean, you won't see it until it's too late. It acts like it has a bit of an attitude, and doesn't happen all the time. For example, when my engine was cold, everything was fine. As soon as it got hot though, things lifted up and the leak showed up. I was able to repeat this condition in the garage using a pressurization contraption, and subsequently locate the leak.
These things may work fine naturally aspirated, but I have no data to say one way or the other. I'm pretty sure though that there are plenty of naturally aspirated cars running them without issue. You can probably contact them for that information.
At this time though, I must caution against using them in a supercharged application, at least until the problem can be identified and resolved. I have switched back to the OEM gasket, and I highly recommend that anyone running the supercharger do the same thing immediately. It would only take a matter of seconds of high RPM detonation to ruin a motor. The risk is too high, and without knowing what the problem is, and the knowledge that the benefits are minimal anyway, it's not worth it to find out the hard way.
Changing the gasket is a simple job, and can be done with the manifold still in the car. You only need to loosen the 2 bolts that hold the lower mount (about 3 turns), remove the dip stick retaining screw, lift up the fuel rail and hold it back, and then unbolt the manifold, lift it up, slip the gasket out, and then insert the new gasket. It took me a whopping 30 minutes yesterday to do the entire job.
Unfortunately, whether due to the material, or due to the loose tolerances in the holes, or both, the gasket did not hold up under boost. I developed a leak, which showed up as a small vacuum leak (about 2" of mercury), and caused a lean condition. Fortunately I caught this before I ran it lean and did any damage. Upon inspection, I found that the bolts didn't retain torque, and the gasket pattern from the manifold didn't quite match up right, leaving a very thin contact spot on the #4 cylinder.
Mine is not the only car to experience this problem. I now know of 2 others, and there may be more. One of them may have had the problem contribute to a detonation condition which blew a motor. (It is purely a theory at this time, and more investigation would need to be done to determine if that was the case)
Unless you have a vacuum gauge hooked up, or notice odd idle condition, or use an A/F meter and notice that things are lean, you won't see it until it's too late. It acts like it has a bit of an attitude, and doesn't happen all the time. For example, when my engine was cold, everything was fine. As soon as it got hot though, things lifted up and the leak showed up. I was able to repeat this condition in the garage using a pressurization contraption, and subsequently locate the leak.
These things may work fine naturally aspirated, but I have no data to say one way or the other. I'm pretty sure though that there are plenty of naturally aspirated cars running them without issue. You can probably contact them for that information.
At this time though, I must caution against using them in a supercharged application, at least until the problem can be identified and resolved. I have switched back to the OEM gasket, and I highly recommend that anyone running the supercharger do the same thing immediately. It would only take a matter of seconds of high RPM detonation to ruin a motor. The risk is too high, and without knowing what the problem is, and the knowledge that the benefits are minimal anyway, it's not worth it to find out the hard way.
Changing the gasket is a simple job, and can be done with the manifold still in the car. You only need to loosen the 2 bolts that hold the lower mount (about 3 turns), remove the dip stick retaining screw, lift up the fuel rail and hold it back, and then unbolt the manifold, lift it up, slip the gasket out, and then insert the new gasket. It took me a whopping 30 minutes yesterday to do the entire job.
94 Midnight Metallic Blue Cab Porsche 968 w/deviating cashmere/black interior and WAY too many mods to list - thanks to eric for creating www.968forums.com
"It isn't nearly as expensive to do it right as it is to do it wrong."

