[pmason]

Looks like your making good progress, mine is pretty close to the same state as yours. Having the cage welded in right now. Hope to have it back in a couple of weeks.

So how much of the harness did you keep? I have this huge pile of wires up front.



Interested to see the dash, I was going to put the old one back in, just notch around for the cage.

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[rlips]

[quote name='pmason' timestamp='1322105244' post='118402']

Looks like your making good progress, mine is pretty close to the same state as yours. Having the cage welded in right now. Hope to have it back in a couple of weeks.

So how much of the harness did you keep? I have this huge pile of wires up front.



Interested to see the dash, I was going to put the old one back in, just notch around for the cage.

[/quote]



We've taken out almost everything we can at this point. We are going to re-wire from the fuse box for what we need. Basically: gauges, data, radio, cool system. We are using a toggle switch for master on and a push button ignition.



I'll take a picture of the dash when it is in, hopefully end of next week.

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[pmason]

Picture of mine just before going to the welder. As you can see the pile of wires in the middle.

Can I just say I hate that glue crap.

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[Cloud9...68]

Man, that is scary-looking.

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[DaveN]

Wouldn't it have been easier to go to LA Dismantlers and just bought one like that <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> That's about the stage before they send them off for the crush! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[rlips]

[quote name='pmason' timestamp='1322331992' post='118462']

Picture of mine just before going to the welder. As you can see the pile of wires in the middle.

Can I just say I hate that glue crap.



[/quote]





We are having trouble with the glue as well. Have you figured out a good way to get the glue cleaned up?

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[Cloud9...68]

I've heard thermonuclear nitroglycerin is a good start <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.png" class="smilie" alt="" />



Seriously, I wonder if freezing it somehow, and then chipping it off, would be a good approach. I'm sure you wouldn't want to heat it, as that would make a gooey mess. I seem to remember seeing someone come up with a method that worked reasonably well, but I can't remember who or how. Have you done a search, either on this site, or a general search on Google for carpet glue removal?

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[Dubai944]

I've read of people using dry ice with success to freeze and chip of the glue.



Personally, I did mine with turpentine and a scraper, outside, in Dubai, in summer. After two hours I was nearly dead, so I gave up and paid my gardener a few extra dollars to do it for me instead. He spent three days in the car and it was as good as new....

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[benspeeder]

Removing the glue is a total pain. I've heard of folks using dry ice but you need to have cool/cold weather for it to really work.



I bought some steel and brass brushes that mount onto my grinder and just went after it. Used some kerosene also. It was punishing work - I'll pay somebody next time...

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[pmason]

I don't want to hijack rlip's thread, should probably start my own rebuild thread.

But to answer the question, I tried a number of things, some pretty unpleasant/toxic, what seem to work the best but took some time was Goo Gone, it is one of those citrus based products so not toxic. I would spray it on an area and cover it up with shop rags, come back the next evening and came off pretty well, kind of snotty and may need a second application. Start all over again.

For the tar like stuff on the tunnel I just used a heat gun and putty knife, that came of pretty easy.

But I decided I'm going to put down cheap felt carpet, I picked up a 6x9 foot piece from Napa ~$30.

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[benspeeder]

Might want fireproof stuff...carpet fumes will kill ya...

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[rlips]

Looks like we have got it, accroding to my shop. Citrus based paint stripper, soaked on overnight. I will report back on it soon.

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[benspeeder]

Sorry-I was chiming in on Pmason installing felt carpet. I also thought about doing it until all the pro guys laughed and said fume death in any car fires. But my car is pure race...

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[pmason]

Ben, understood your point, the decision was more to there is still some crap residue didn't feel like I wanted to strip, sand, and paint the whole inside. I didn't see anything on the packaging of the carpet on flame resistance, was going to email the manufacture at least they are a US manufacture. Also check to see if there are other options, the PCA only in the last couple of years said you can remove the carpet and trim for the stock classes.



Rlips did that striper work for you? Mine was just the adhesive remover stuff.

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[benspeeder]

Pmason - on the same page. I would have installed felt instead of stripping out the glue. That job SUCKED. But then I figured let's do it right. I'm going to have the interior professionally sprayed this winter and might be stipping out the last of the nasty stuff I missed first time.

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[rlips]

mock up of the dash

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[Cloud9...68]

Maybe you said earlier in the thread, but what's your weight target for the car? You're definitely taking a lot out by gutting the interior. You must have to do a lot of custom wiring to get the new gauges to work. That sounds very challenging - is it as bad as it sounds? I wouldn't know where to begin with something like that...

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[pmason]

Looks good, who makes the dash shell? Are you ever going to get a AIM or like dash?

Guess it would always pretty easy to replace the carbon fiber piece and move things around a bit.

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[rlips]

I have a trackmate, but I decided on a (mostly) analog dash. The two gauges on either side of the tach are a speedo and fuel gauge, made by Dakota digital. I am an electrical engineer, so I was able to figure out how do get the gauges to work. Basically, for the speedo, we were able to get a pulse signal from the input side of the frequency transformer off the ABS output. The Fuel sender was easy as well, we did some resistance measurements and came up with a 5 ohm resister in series with the fuel sender to make it's output match what Dakota digital call (Ford 10), which is one of the choices for calibration.



Target weight on the car is 2700 lbs without driver. Me and equipment will weigh in at 180 or so, so we might need 20 lbs of ballast to make 2900 lbs,

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[pmason]

rlips, Update? Is the dash in? Once I get the cage painted I have to try and cut/fit one of my dashes to fit.

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