[Kim]

Well I am going to do the wiring harnesses and replace the fuse block. Also going to convert from the old refrigerant to the newer (R134?) type at the same time. Car is going in on Friday to get a parts list and then I will try to source the harnesses. Can only imagine that this will use all the money in the piggy bank for this year but it has to be done. It is bugging me that the voltmeter seems to hop around so much and the wires are cracked. There can only be so many harnesses out there and I want to be one of the lucky ones who get one. I will advise on progress and costs as it goes. So far, the A/C conversion is priced at about $1000 and the wiring harnesses at about $2600. Don't know what labour to install the harnesses will be yet.

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[rhudeboye]

[quote name='Kim' post='53897' date='Jun 3 2008, 05:15 PM']So far, the A/C conversion is priced at about $1000 and the wiring harnesses at about $2600. Don't know what labour to install the harnesses will be yet.[/quote]



3 grand before labor. Been there myself.



Should I ever have another big project my car is going to the barn. From the last quote Pete gave me coupled with his expertise on these cars, I really regretted my first choice of Porsche specialist.

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[FRporscheman]

$1000?! I got my benz converted for $200. What exactly does their work order entail? A harness for $2600?!?! Why don't you buy a used one? There are plenty of old high-mileage 968s out there with perfectly good harnesses - i.e. a used harness should be fine.

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[hawaii7]

[quote name='FRporscheman' post='54131' date='Jun 6 2008, 05:41 PM']$1000?! I got my benz converted for $200. What exactly does their work order entail? A harness for $2600?!?! Why don't you buy a used one? There are plenty of old high-mileage 968s out there with perfectly good harnesses - i.e. a used harness should be fine.[/quote]





I got three prices on the a/c conversion for my '92. My regular independent guy was $1200.00, the dealership was only $590!

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[Kim]

I always envy those who get stuff done cheaply somewhere. I, however, just go to my Porsche dealer as the other choices, which are few, are less competent IMHO. The guy who works on my car is good. So I go there. Such is life.



Don't want ANY used wires. 16 year old wires from one are not apt to be much better than 16 year old wires from another. In any event, my problems are elsewhere (see another post) and the harness is not needed.

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[xrad]

glad to hear the harness is not needed...BIG JOB $$$$...



any luck with the gauges? I had to mix and match gauge cluster parts to get everything working (including the gauge power supply located insidt the plastic gauge housing)

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[Kim]

Used gauges that were supposedly from a 968 were actually from a 944 and not usable. So I had to order new voltage and oil pressure gauges from Germany. Some work is still needed in the fuse block area. The coolant hoses have been replaced. The wiring harness between the batter, alternator and starter has been fabricated and installed and the AC conversion to R134 has been done. The quick-disconnect valve that came with the kit was bad and required replacement but otherwise it seemed to go OK. So I am just waiting on these gauges. All this to fix a bouncy oil pressure gauge and a low-reading voltmeter. I will advise of final result and cost when I am done. Anyone have a spare job for me?

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[xrad]

Kim: many of the internals of the 86 and > gauges work with the 968 cluster. Turbo excluded, and a few other differences like Tiptronic light, gear selector, and ABS. However, the fuel/temp gauge is the same and the tach is the same. 'in gauge' Power supply same. Non tip voltmeter the same,too. Speedo different MPH. Housing will work. Biggest problem is the flexible wiring boards used on the back of the cluster. You must use a 968 flex board so that it works with the correct pins in the connector packs. and you have to change the light bulbs accordingly.





By mixing and matching, with time and care, many of the 944 parts can be used. If you put the gauge in yourself, take your time. many little pins and screws and some tricky clamps on the back of the cluster when first removing. But, overall, an easy job. I'm sure you have seen this pic. If you need any help, just PM me.

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[Kim]

I know that is a bit against the grain here but I haven't a) the time and <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> the patience to fool with this. New stuff tends to work and has a warranty. I like the simple and dumb method. I was told today that ALL the work I had done is going to result in about a $3500 bill and that seems to me to be about good for the amount of work and the number of new parts involved. I should have it back by end of week. I am hoping that I don't drive it into a tree with the exuberance of having it back (that would be fitting for the Baron of Bugtussel) as I haven;t any collision of comprehensive insurance.

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[xrad]

whaaaaat.... now Kim, you know your gonna hear about this!



3,500 in labor because you care about the warranty and no collision? throw a few hundred at Geico and get something....please....



Orrr, I contract with you a few thousand $ and if , God forbid, something were to happen, the car is mine, but you get the cash!

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[Kim]

$3500 includes:



all labour

new oil pressure gauge (from the Fatherland)

new voltage gauge (from the Fatherland)

new wiring harness to starter, alternator, battery

three new coolant hoses

new DME temp sensor

parts to convert R12 to R134a plus recharge

wiring repairs to fuse block area



doesn't seem so bad to me.



You see, time is money. Time, to me, is in short supply but I can earn money. For those with more time, the higgely-piggely method of slow and painstaking diagnosis and parts replacement, trying to find repairable parts, having the car all apart for weeks, etc is a good deal. But not for me.

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