<![CDATA[968Forums.com - Stereos, NAVs, & Gadgets]]>

<![CDATA[968Forums.com - Stereos, NAVs, & Gadgets]]> https://968forums.com/forum/ Sun, 17 May 2026 18:17:59 +0000 MyBB <![CDATA[Possible Alpine head unit.]]> https://968forums.com/forum/possible-alpine-head-unit.html Sun, 17 May 2020 17:46:40 -0500 jthomson]]> https://968forums.com/forum/possible-alpine-head-unit.html Anyone have experience with this one and it's associated amp? I think it's the only one that would fit depth wise. https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/apple...o-ilx-w650

]]> Anyone have experience with this one and it's associated amp? I think it's the only one that would fit depth wise. https://www.alpine-usa.com/product/apple...o-ilx-w650

]]> <![CDATA[Phone Mount]]> https://968forums.com/forum/phone-mount.html Wed, 03 Jan 2018 15:45:59 -0600 968Syncro]]> https://968forums.com/forum/phone-mount.html

I just put some phone mounts in the cars (I'm always slow obeying laws), and here are a couple of pics. My wife had bought some stuff that then sat in the garage, and during holiday cleanup I decided to put them to use. It is simply a vacuum mount to the car, and a magnetic mount to your phone. I could find only one place in the 968 that makes sense, and is flat enough to allow the device to hold a vacuum. The glove box door opens fine, just barely clears the mount, and this location doesn't seem to interfere with anything except the passenger's leg space. What do you think, any other good solutions?

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I just put some phone mounts in the cars (I'm always slow obeying laws), and here are a couple of pics. My wife had bought some stuff that then sat in the garage, and during holiday cleanup I decided to put them to use. It is simply a vacuum mount to the car, and a magnetic mount to your phone. I could find only one place in the 968 that makes sense, and is flat enough to allow the device to hold a vacuum. The glove box door opens fine, just barely clears the mount, and this location doesn't seem to interfere with anything except the passenger's leg space. What do you think, any other good solutions?

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]]> <![CDATA[Subwoofer Location - 1993 968 Cabriolet]]> https://968forums.com/forum/subwoofer-location-1993-968-cabriolet.html Mon, 09 Jan 2017 12:26:59 -0600 Ash]]> https://968forums.com/forum/subwoofer-location-1993-968-cabriolet.html

Thanks very much!

]]>

Thanks very much!

]]> <![CDATA[Stereo for 93 Cab???]]> https://968forums.com/forum/stereo-for-93-cab.html Fri, 28 Oct 2016 18:16:14 -0500 Westy]]> https://968forums.com/forum/stereo-for-93-cab.html

PS. I am NOT chopping up the console for some double DIN with icing on top. Just want some music, and don't even care if it has a USB and Sat radio (although I realize most do!). Thanx.

]]>

PS. I am NOT chopping up the console for some double DIN with icing on top. Just want some music, and don't even care if it has a USB and Sat radio (although I realize most do!). Thanx.

]]> <![CDATA[New Blaupunkt]]> https://968forums.com/forum/new-blaupunkt.html Sun, 19 Jul 2015 23:37:47 -0500 MLB]]> https://968forums.com/forum/new-blaupunkt.html

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So I also bought a Zapco 4 channel amp for a little smoother power, which will probably go in the right rear wheel well of my cab, now that I've removed the 41# 'boat anchor'.

Is the pictured spot in the back (red arrow) a good place where I can reliably ground the amp?

Thanks

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]]> <![CDATA[Head unit recommendations.]]> https://968forums.com/forum/head-unit-recommendations.html Sun, 23 Nov 2014 17:49:57 -0600 jthomson]]> https://968forums.com/forum/head-unit-recommendations.html

Not too many requirements; 16-20 watts per channel, tweakability eq-wise; really good nav. I don't really care about phone or other BT stuff, although any good HU will probably have all that stuff anyway. Would be nice to have a single DIN, cause that clock cubby comes in handy, but not a deal breaker.

I do have a pair of 8" subs in the rear deck that I'm very happy with around town and on the highway with the top up.

I know I'm limited on depth. About 7", right? Please no jokes...

Anyway, what do y'all recommend? Thanks, as always.

jt]]>

Not too many requirements; 16-20 watts per channel, tweakability eq-wise; really good nav. I don't really care about phone or other BT stuff, although any good HU will probably have all that stuff anyway. Would be nice to have a single DIN, cause that clock cubby comes in handy, but not a deal breaker.

I do have a pair of 8" subs in the rear deck that I'm very happy with around town and on the highway with the top up.

I know I'm limited on depth. About 7", right? Please no jokes...

Anyway, what do y'all recommend? Thanks, as always.

jt]]> <![CDATA[Subwoofer Baffle Plate]]> https://968forums.com/forum/subwoofer-baffle-plate.html Sun, 09 Nov 2014 14:18:14 -0600 flash]]> https://968forums.com/forum/subwoofer-baffle-plate.html

would anybody actually use it?]]>

would anybody actually use it?]]> <![CDATA[Improved Sound Stage]]> https://968forums.com/forum/improved-sound-stage.html Wed, 05 Nov 2014 09:35:31 -0600 bva]]> https://968forums.com/forum/improved-sound-stage.html

A 6.5 inch dual voice coil mid-bass is in the door with a 2 inch mid in the stock location, crossed at 800hz. There's also a 1 inch silk dome tweeter mounted at the top of the A-pillar; the mid and tweet cross at 4khz. Two 8 inch dual voice coil CF subs replace the rear seat-backs, in a ported enclosure tuned to 42hz. A five channel Alpine amp in the right rear cubby powers the lot; 1 output pair to the mid-bass, 1 pair to the mids and tweeters, and the mono out to the subs.

For the moment, the rear fills are disconnected; their location just pulls the sound stage to my left shoulder and I haven't found the right time alignment to put them on a virtual rear wall. (I still have the option to connect the rear fills to the head unit) To complete the door installation, I bought a pair of 944 door pockets and refurbished them, including fiberglass reinforcement and fresh carpet. The door cards will need to be recovered eventually.

Drivers are all from CDT, designed in SB county, 45 minutes from home.

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A 6.5 inch dual voice coil mid-bass is in the door with a 2 inch mid in the stock location, crossed at 800hz. There's also a 1 inch silk dome tweeter mounted at the top of the A-pillar; the mid and tweet cross at 4khz. Two 8 inch dual voice coil CF subs replace the rear seat-backs, in a ported enclosure tuned to 42hz. A five channel Alpine amp in the right rear cubby powers the lot; 1 output pair to the mid-bass, 1 pair to the mids and tweeters, and the mono out to the subs.

For the moment, the rear fills are disconnected; their location just pulls the sound stage to my left shoulder and I haven't found the right time alignment to put them on a virtual rear wall. (I still have the option to connect the rear fills to the head unit) To complete the door installation, I bought a pair of 944 door pockets and refurbished them, including fiberglass reinforcement and fresh carpet. The door cards will need to be recovered eventually.

Drivers are all from CDT, designed in SB county, 45 minutes from home.

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]]> <![CDATA[Rear speaker mounting depth]]> https://968forums.com/forum/rear-speaker-mounting-depth.html Wed, 22 Oct 2014 12:02:56 -0500 dry664]]> https://968forums.com/forum/rear-speaker-mounting-depth.html <![CDATA[Subwoofer Revisited]]> https://968forums.com/forum/subwoofer-revisited.html Sun, 28 Sep 2014 18:11:08 -0500 bva]]> https://968forums.com/forum/subwoofer-revisited.html

My first experiment used a pair of CDT 6.5 inch dual voice coil (DVC) drivers, rated at 42hz to 4khz free air - no enclosure necessary. I like the DVC because wiring options let you configure a pair from 2 to 8 ohms. At modest volume these sounded great, but lacked the sensitivity to drive them hard at 100hz to get on top of the road noise. I'm happy with the response of these drivers in the mid-bass, so the plan is to move them into the doors eventually.

In the 'final' iteration, I went with a pair of 8 inch DVC subs, rated at 10hz to 400hz. The drivers are loaded into a ported/tuned 2 chamber mdf enclosure with a fiberglass front panel.

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My first experiment used a pair of CDT 6.5 inch dual voice coil (DVC) drivers, rated at 42hz to 4khz free air - no enclosure necessary. I like the DVC because wiring options let you configure a pair from 2 to 8 ohms. At modest volume these sounded great, but lacked the sensitivity to drive them hard at 100hz to get on top of the road noise. I'm happy with the response of these drivers in the mid-bass, so the plan is to move them into the doors eventually.

In the 'final' iteration, I went with a pair of 8 inch DVC subs, rated at 10hz to 400hz. The drivers are loaded into a ported/tuned 2 chamber mdf enclosure with a fiberglass front panel.

trunk.jpg Size: 168.83 KB Downloads: 8

twins.jpg Size: 160.29 KB Downloads: 9

]]> <![CDATA[Audiophile input]]> https://968forums.com/forum/audiophile-input.html Mon, 25 Aug 2014 16:53:50 -0500 Ernie]]> https://968forums.com/forum/audiophile-input.html <![CDATA[Rear cubby rattle]]> https://968forums.com/forum/rear-cubby-rattle.html Fri, 15 Aug 2014 21:11:33 -0500 Ernie]]> https://968forums.com/forum/rear-cubby-rattle.html <![CDATA[Speaker grille cloth - recommended replacement?]]> https://968forums.com/forum/speaker-grille-cloth-recommended-replacement.html Thu, 07 Aug 2014 15:21:37 -0500 apex]]> https://968forums.com/forum/speaker-grille-cloth-recommended-replacement.html

The cloth is glued to the inside of the grille - and being a very thin felt-like fabric just gets destroyed when you try to pull it off. Which I did, and it was. :-)

Tweeter cloth comes right out - no problem.

Question - can anyone recommend something close to the original weight and color? There's a lot of speaker cloth out there... hard to tell what is right.

Thanks,

J]]>

The cloth is glued to the inside of the grille - and being a very thin felt-like fabric just gets destroyed when you try to pull it off. Which I did, and it was. :-)

Tweeter cloth comes right out - no problem.

Question - can anyone recommend something close to the original weight and color? There's a lot of speaker cloth out there... hard to tell what is right.

Thanks,

J]]> <![CDATA[Looking for some "sound" stereo advice]]> https://968forums.com/forum/looking-for-some-sound-stereo-advice.html Sun, 03 Aug 2014 13:02:48 -0500 apex]]> https://968forums.com/forum/looking-for-some-sound-stereo-advice.html

In some ways my queries here should follow-on from Paul W's informative post about his Becker Traffic Pro install. I've learned a lot in the last couple of weeks reading this forum and others - but still have a "couple" of questions I hope you can answer.

Context

1992 coupe

New Becker CDR-220 - purchased from SW stereo - Stefan there is very helpful.

New JL Audio XD 400/4 amp

Speaker upgrades - doors first, rears to follow

Dynamat everywhere - well, not Dynamat, but Stinger Expert Roadkill bulk pack - less expensive.

Questions

Power wiring for the amp - conventional wisdom says run power right and speaker pairs back up on the left, don't ever run them parallel, and if you cross, cross at 90 degrees. So the trick is crossing to get back into the right door, and back to the right rear (which as I think about this in the abstract seems especially difficult.) What wire runs have worked for people in the past?

Oh - one possible wiring topology would be power up the middle next to torque tube - then speaker wire can travel left and right without any bother. BUT - can't see a path through and around the rear seats. Looks like the rear lighting harness comes up about amidships behind the seats but i don't see a way to take advantage of that path either. Anyone done this?

Door speakers - I foolishly thought I could simply retire the rotted-out mid-range speaker, and replace the low and tweeter with speakers of my choice. But my friends at Crutchfield (I'm local - so they're a good resource) say I need to buy a matched component pair with proper crossover circuitry. True? I'm ready to pop in JL Audio C3-525 in the doors, paired with new JL C3-650's in the back. Anyone done the "tweeter mod" that's been posted here with that JL tweeter?

Stock wiring - My car has two 2-channel amps under the seats - see the attached pics. Initially I was hoping to keep and use the existing wiring but now not so much. Check out the wiring diagram - who can explain to me why the right amp drives right door and left rear, and the left amp drives left door and right rear? The wiring diagram labels the amps as "rear" and "front" but those labels don't make sense either. Anyway, it's complicated enough I just want to rip it all out and re-do. Any advice appreciated.

JL XD 400/4 - this amp is small and fits nicely in the right rear cubby. Haven't figured out the mounting yet. It's really no bigger than the Alpine CD changer I just removed. (Ha - the changer is available if anyone wants it.) The amp says I need a test-tone CD and voltmeter to properly set the input sensitivity. I found a couple of links to 1khz and 50hz audio files to make my own CD with. Would this be the recommended path?

Anyone have experience or recommendations regarding the Crutchfield amp install kits? Or should I just assemble what I need separately?

Ha - and yes, Flash, someday a parametric equalizer but I've spent my wad and right now I just need me some radio and music to get me to work in the morning. My standards are high, but I have to decide to self-arrest on this slippery slope at some point! :-)

Thanks very much,

Jeff in VA

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In some ways my queries here should follow-on from Paul W's informative post about his Becker Traffic Pro install. I've learned a lot in the last couple of weeks reading this forum and others - but still have a "couple" of questions I hope you can answer.

Context

1992 coupe

New Becker CDR-220 - purchased from SW stereo - Stefan there is very helpful.

New JL Audio XD 400/4 amp

Speaker upgrades - doors first, rears to follow

Dynamat everywhere - well, not Dynamat, but Stinger Expert Roadkill bulk pack - less expensive.

Questions

Power wiring for the amp - conventional wisdom says run power right and speaker pairs back up on the left, don't ever run them parallel, and if you cross, cross at 90 degrees. So the trick is crossing to get back into the right door, and back to the right rear (which as I think about this in the abstract seems especially difficult.) What wire runs have worked for people in the past?

Oh - one possible wiring topology would be power up the middle next to torque tube - then speaker wire can travel left and right without any bother. BUT - can't see a path through and around the rear seats. Looks like the rear lighting harness comes up about amidships behind the seats but i don't see a way to take advantage of that path either. Anyone done this?

Door speakers - I foolishly thought I could simply retire the rotted-out mid-range speaker, and replace the low and tweeter with speakers of my choice. But my friends at Crutchfield (I'm local - so they're a good resource) say I need to buy a matched component pair with proper crossover circuitry. True? I'm ready to pop in JL Audio C3-525 in the doors, paired with new JL C3-650's in the back. Anyone done the "tweeter mod" that's been posted here with that JL tweeter?

Stock wiring - My car has two 2-channel amps under the seats - see the attached pics. Initially I was hoping to keep and use the existing wiring but now not so much. Check out the wiring diagram - who can explain to me why the right amp drives right door and left rear, and the left amp drives left door and right rear? The wiring diagram labels the amps as "rear" and "front" but those labels don't make sense either. Anyway, it's complicated enough I just want to rip it all out and re-do. Any advice appreciated.

JL XD 400/4 - this amp is small and fits nicely in the right rear cubby. Haven't figured out the mounting yet. It's really no bigger than the Alpine CD changer I just removed. (Ha - the changer is available if anyone wants it.) The amp says I need a test-tone CD and voltmeter to properly set the input sensitivity. I found a couple of links to 1khz and 50hz audio files to make my own CD with. Would this be the recommended path?

Anyone have experience or recommendations regarding the Crutchfield amp install kits? Or should I just assemble what I need separately?

Ha - and yes, Flash, someday a parametric equalizer but I've spent my wad and right now I just need me some radio and music to get me to work in the morning. My standards are high, but I have to decide to self-arrest on this slippery slope at some point! :-)

Thanks very much,

Jeff in VA

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]]> <![CDATA[i will now stop whining]]> https://968forums.com/forum/i-will-now-stop-whining.html Wed, 19 Feb 2014 16:20:13 -0600 flash]]> https://968forums.com/forum/i-will-now-stop-whining.html

i tried all sorts of wiring changes, moving grounds around, re-routing things, new cables, yada yada - no dice

i went to the internet and found some "fixes" - no dice

thought maybe the eq was making noise - sent it back - installed new one - do dice

changed eq models to the new one - no dice

i went back to the internet and found that the pioneer decks are prone to the whine, as a result of a blown pico resistor. - yanked the deck - sent it in - it spent 2 months there - they lost it - they found it - they hadn't fixed it - got a new one - no dice

that left the amp - i had changed everything else in my hunt. yanked the amp - installed new one - SUCCESS!!!!

she's nice and quiet now. a few tuning tweaks and i'm done - WOOHOO!!!

now to do something about quieting down the exhaust a bit, and i can finally drive the car and enjoy it.]]>

i tried all sorts of wiring changes, moving grounds around, re-routing things, new cables, yada yada - no dice

i went to the internet and found some "fixes" - no dice

thought maybe the eq was making noise - sent it back - installed new one - do dice

changed eq models to the new one - no dice

i went back to the internet and found that the pioneer decks are prone to the whine, as a result of a blown pico resistor. - yanked the deck - sent it in - it spent 2 months there - they lost it - they found it - they hadn't fixed it - got a new one - no dice

that left the amp - i had changed everything else in my hunt. yanked the amp - installed new one - SUCCESS!!!!

she's nice and quiet now. a few tuning tweaks and i'm done - WOOHOO!!!

now to do something about quieting down the exhaust a bit, and i can finally drive the car and enjoy it.]]>