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Brake Bleeding - Printable Version

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Brake Bleeding - Miles'PHTurbo968 - 11-15-2006

I have swapped the brakes on my 2 cars and now I need to bleed the "Big Reds". I have done a search here and have found the Follow the sequence Rear Right, Rear Left, Front Right, Front Left. This is because you must do the wheels furthest away from the resevoir first.



My question is: The Big Reds 2 bleeder valves, what I call the"front" and "back", Hopefully these designations are pretty obvious. Which one do you bleed first the front or back? Inboard or outboard if you prefer.







TIA

Miles

Brake Bleeding - Eric_K - 11-16-2006

That is the corner sequence I do it in. I bleed the outboard then the inboard bleeder - although I'm not sure how much that matters. Your rears should also have 2 bleeders per caliper. You will be quite the 968 expert by the time you are done with the swap!

Brake Bleeding - Dave - 11-16-2006

The factory shop manual says the order doesn't matter. So apparently, Dr. Porsche is not emotional about it.



That said, I like to bleed the inboard side first, outboard next... furthest caliper going down to nearest... then do the clutch slave.



My logic is to bring new fluid in from the brake line, completely replace it UP TO the point in the caliper where it continues on to the outboard side.



'Course, when I have one side of the car in the air at the track, wheels off... all that goes out the window and I bleed what I can reach right there and then.



Truly, as long as you pull enough fluid from each to accomplish your goal (bleed caliper and/or bleed caliper and entire line back to reservoir), it doesn't seem to matter.



Also, do get in the habit of using the right torque to close the bleed screws. It's quite low and is an opportunity to mangle nice aluminum threads.

Brake Bleeding - Miles'PHTurbo968 - 11-16-2006

Thanks Eric and Dave!

I have had the brakes installed now for about 5-6 week and as you know I just start bleeding project yesterday. I started with the right Rear and all seemed to be going well. I went back up to the reserve tank to check the pressure and I found a leak in a line. This line is blue and braided and comes directly of the reservoir tank and looks like it goes to the clutch master or slave cylinder, I forgot which on is which? Anyway, I have to get it replaced before I proceed.

Thanks Again

Miles

ps I agree that the amount of torque applied to these aluminum bleeders is very important. They almost feel like they want to strip and cause a problem.









[quote name='Dave' post='27977' date='Nov 16 2006, 07:28 AM']The factory shop manual says the order doesn't matter. So apparently, Dr. Porsche is not emotional about it.



That said, I like to bleed the inboard side first, outboard next... furthest caliper going down to nearest... then do the clutch slave.



My logic is to bring new fluid in from the brake line, completely replace it UP TO the point in the caliper where it continues on to the outboard side.



'Course, when I have one side of the car in the air at the track, wheels off... all that goes out the window and I bleed what I can reach right there and then.



Truly, as long as you pull enough fluid from each to accomplish your goal (bleed caliper and/or bleed caliper and entire line back to reservoir), it doesn't seem to matter.



Also, do get in the habit of using the right torque to close the bleed screws. It's quite low and is an opportunity to mangle nice aluminum threads.[/quote]

Brake Bleeding - Dave - 11-16-2006

[quote name='Miles'PHTurbo968' post='27990' date='Nov 16 2006, 01:32 PM']looks like it goes to the clutch master or slave cylinder[/quote]



When you go to bleed the clutch slave, I recommend removing the negative terminal at the battery first. That little 7mm wrench likes to find the hot side of the starter while you're poking around down there.



Ask me how I know <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/ohmy.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Brake Bleeding - Miles'PHTurbo968 - 11-16-2006

That's a great tip cause I've already had my fill of shocking experiences for this year



Miles

Brake Bleeding - Miles'PHTurbo968 - 11-20-2006

Motive Bleeder made it almost goof proof. I just finished bleeding the brakes. The shake down run around the neighborhood went well and no leaks or other problems. I will recheck tomorrow, but for now all is well. Now that almost all the suspension is complete I will start on the interior. Because of availability issues with the Charlie arms I am going with the Racer's Edge arms from RS Barn. Pete is really easy to deal with and answered all my crazy questions. So back up on the jackstands and off with wheels, brakes, struts, and send the spindles to PA for some machining and new A-arms.



The interior remains gutted for now..no front or rear seats, no console and the dash is soon to go. The rear seats are going to be replaced with the jump seats/cubbies from a Cab. Then onto the installation of my new Pioneer AVIC-N3, which I am already sure is going to take some doing.........Engine,exhaust and some trans work to follow



Thanks again for all the tips!

Regards,

Miles

Brake Bleeding - Dave - 11-20-2006

Glad to hear it. My son was bleeding the brakes on my old 944 when he was 10. Motive is the hot set-up.

Brake Bleeding - flash - 11-21-2006

i just bled mine a few weeks ago, wheni installed the 5/33 bias valve, and based on how the fluid seemed to flow, it seemed to me that the circuit went from inner to outer screw - so, i bled them from outer to inner, but still followed standard "farthest wheel to nearest wheel" procedure



seems fine, though i only have about 75 miles on the car since then

Brake Bleeding - Rude944 - 11-21-2006

Miles-

I worked on your car back when I was the tech at PH. Nice car!



My procedure is as follows. Use ATE blue fluid to fill a power bleeder, on the wheel side, take a plastic bottle and drill a hole in the cap. Snake a transparent, slightly larger diameter hose throught the hole and make a clothes hanger wrap around the neck of the bottle to hold it on the brakeline. Start with the farthest wheel first (LR), outboard, then inboard. Work the rears first, then RF, clutch, LF. This will remove the old fluid with less chance of mixing old and new.



With this method, there is reduced risk of entering new air into the lines. All said and done right, this is the most painless method I found as a 10 year wrench. The powerbleeder is in my opinion, a necessity.



-Seth



BTW, I have some pics/video from your build if Dave never gave some to you. Hit me at my email.

Brake Bleeding - Dave - 11-21-2006

[quote name='flash' post='28165' date='Nov 21 2006, 10:03 AM']i just bled mine a few weeks ago, wheni installed the 5/33 bias valve[/quote]



Flash - I've "heard" one needs to bleed the ABS unit if you open it up and lose pressure (like you do when you change the brake proportioning valve). Something about it having a little reservoir of its own and needing to be purged of any potential air.



I did so by waiting for a rainy day and going out to light up the ABS like crazy. Subesquent little bleed and it's all done.



Just my 2 cents on that FWIW.