[snova]

the hall sender generally fails in 2 manners.


1. the heat destroys the connector


2. the magnetic component inside the housing disintegrates


since you already knew it was iffy, and you now have a code, replace the hall sender and see if your problem persists.

 

Today I found a melted female connector going into a 3 pin male connector next to the distributor coil.

Is this the connector for the hall sender? see photo. 

https://i.redd.it/4cd1loxku5m41.jpg

 

would like to replace just the female connector without replacing the entire wiring harness. Not sure about the part number.

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[snova]

I think I found the right thread here:

 

http://www.968forums.com/topic/14778-mys...ntry166795

 

By the looks of things I may require both ends.  At least I was planning on remove the cam cover already to fix the spark plug seals.

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[Waylander]

They are AMP/Tyco junior timer plugs and sockets, they can both be replaced without having to change the wiring loom


They can be found on the bay of fleas, I have changed both on my car and made a new hall sensor using a Siemens HX11 sensor as they were just riveted on and cost $13 instead of $220


The effect of a broken cam sensor is the retardation of the ignition timing by up to 10 degrees and the firing sequence for the injectors changes from sequencal to all at once, really effects your fuel economy


The sensor is a closed circuit you have three connections, shield and in and out


I have some pictures somewhere of when I did mine 5 years ago

 

the porsche part number for the plug / socket I think is 022 906 233 B, hard to tell from the pictures.

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/BOSCH-3-PIN-FEM...Swd4tT2BJS

 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Conector-coche-...SwOgdYsD0b

 

If the sensor is smashed and i have seen a few, one had even destroyed the ring on the back of the cam pulley,

 

you need to search ebay for Hall Pick Up Sensor HKZ101, on your side of the pond

eBay item number:172270558375

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[snova]

Thanks Waylander.   eBay only seems to have them in the UK.  Found one on Amazon for "Porsche" and other German makes.

Does this look about right to you?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Michigan-Motorspo...=8-2-fkmr0


or is this one even better?

 

https://www.amazon.com/Connector-Plug-Au...H56R1R2WS3

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[snova]

the second link looks more correct to me. What do you think?

 

do you think I should replace the hall sensor itself based on the photo that I attached to this thread?  I am guessing its missing the outer molding that went around the three male pins that allows it to snap into the female end that I list in the amazon link above (second link).

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[snova]

I think I found the correct search term to find the female end on eBay for the US.

 

"ev1 3 pin"

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[Waylander]

yes they are called different things depending on where you are,

 

EV1 3 pin for the hall sensor, and crank sensor

EV1 5 pin for the throttle position sensor

 

real pain to have to take the cam box off to change it, when I took mine off there was a plate with 3 wires attached, two little bits of plastic with rivets throught them, but no sensor at all, It had gone, just degraded and fell off then smashed by the cam ring.

 

i had to replace the rotor trim on a friends car because it was completely bent, thats the part that triggers the sensor,

 

944 105 229 03 $19, but you have to take the belts off and the cam pulley,

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[snova]

uggg... not crazy about removing the timing belt and cam pully.  

I'll try just the female side for now and see if it makes any difference.

 

Or am I better off just to solder the wires from the harness to the male end?  The female connect side probably won't hold as the male side has no outer molding anymore.

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[Waylander]

Replace both halves of the plug be less grief in the long term


When you take the cam cover off and remove the sensor plate, once you turn it over and have a look your choices may have been made for you


You can see the trigger ring through the hole once the sensor is removed, if all is well and the sensor is complete and the ring undamaged and you have tested the sensor to make sure its not open circuit, you should be fine


Nothing worse that going through changing all the plugs and sockets to find out the sensor is duff and you have to do it all again

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[snova]

Thanks Waylander. Will do.

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[pdxmike]

Waylander - there must be a way to test for operation of the hall sensor without pulling it, no? If no blink code then is the sensor OK? Can't remember if Durametric tests for this...

Thoughts on why that plug is so melted? I mean that looks like it was on fire...

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[Waylander]

I see from the picture that the plug has fallen off the disintegrated socket, dangled down and melted on the heat shield for the exhaust manifold, 

 

that is just about the hottest part of the engine bay, the exhaust manifold just below and not much airflow in that area, its a bit cluttered just there, I moved the PAS tank and just about anything that would give me more room, think it still took me about 3 hours or so, the main loom runs through the little gap between the belt covers and the cylinder head, its about 10mm wide and you cant get the plug through that hole.

 

heat and old age and crappy plastic, the plug can be replaced but its very difficult as there is almost no spare lead to play with

 

the sensor not sending a signal will give you  1-1-3-4 on the blink test or in Durametric, you can only do that with the motor running,

 

I replaced the socket on the engine loom and it was a total struggle, just no real slack to play with.

 

when i did mine I replaced the Vane Hall Sensor with a HKZ101 which I riveted on to the original back plate, as that was missing the sensor, long gone,

 

made up a new led and soldered it all on and shrink wrapped it all, been working fine for 5 years now.

 

the Porsche Sensor is 944 606 170 02 $229, you can cut that in half by buying Bosch 0 232 101 013, its the exact same part but not in  Porsche box or if your a real cheapskate like me, https://ebay.us/2Cpf6Q

 

That's $19, personally i have no issue with saving $200 or £200 its just the same $ for £

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[snova]

Does the metal holder for the male connector have anything with heat transfer ONTO the connectors? Seem like a bad place for the connectors to me.

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[snova]

Does the metal holder for the male connector have anything with heat transfer ONTO the connectors? Seem like a bad place for the connectors to me.  Or is it just the heat coming up off the exhaust headers?  Any ideas for heat shielding other than relocation of the connectors?

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[Waylander]

Mine has been fine since replacement, think the heat resistance of the plastic has improved in 30 years, also the old one your replacing has lasted at least 20-25 years

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[ds968]

I replaced the one in my Tipronic about a year before I sold the car, and I believe it was the original one - nearly all disintegrated and crumbled into pieces as soon as it was removed, no idea how that thing managed to hold together and function in that condition . 25 years and 115 K miles. But the car was originally from New Mexico where summer heat can often compete with Arizona and Nevada, so that in combo with the manifold heat in proximity probably expedited the deterioration. On the other, hand on my six speed ( I checked it right after the experience with the Tip ) that unit is in great shape ( about 125 K miles on the car now ) so not sure why the difference, unless its mostly the climate and less so the engine heat ..

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