[Anchorman]

My car is approaching 135k miles, and my first visit to Pete revealed some things that needed to be done as the result of age, some as the result of mileage, and and some as the result of power steering fluid destruction. For the moment, we've agreed on the following work plan, most or all to be done next week:



- Oil/filter change

- Coolant change, with installation of Audi HCV

- Fuel filter change

- Castor blocks (944 turbo version)

- Engine mounts (OEM)

- Steering rack (acquired from Jason Judd who went manual with his track car)

- Whatever it takes to fix the power steering fluid leak

- Front brake pads (whatever Pete is recommending)

- Front crossdrilled Zimmerman rotors

- Brake fluid change (ATE Blue)

- Timing and balance shaft belts (50k miles on the current set)

- M030 front and rear sway bars and bushings

- Rod bearings (with the mileage and a DE event coming up, better safe than sorry)



Then, sometime later this year (if I've been a good boy and saved up my money), an RS Barn head. And, with Pete's help, maybe I'll finish the front caliper rebuild and powder coating project.



Oh, then I'm also going to be getting the Carrera III wheels with Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires (my summer wheels and tires were stolen a few weeks ago).



Good thing my wife doesn't get on this web site.



Have I missed anything?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[94SilverCab]

Air box Mod and RS Barn Stage 1 Custom Chip.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Etnier]

Put drilled rotors on the back as well. It's pretty inexpensive and looks great. I'd put in SS brake lines too.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

Thanks, guys. The airbox mod and the chip that won Flash's shootout are already done, as are crossdrilled rotors on all wheels - it's simply a replacement of the fronts that's now required. SS brake lines is an interesting thought that I'll run past Pete. At this point, with what's on the list, I guess it's "...in for a penny, in for a pound."

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

the lines are cheap and it gives you a great excuse to flush your system

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

Stainless steel brake lines are now on the list, as is an inspection (and, possibly, an upgrade or replacement) of the oil pickup. One more item being considered is the brake proportioning valve. As the list lengthens, I have these ambivalent feelings...I'm sure you understand.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[odb812]

where's your power steering fluid coming down from? i have fluid coming down but it looks like it's from the bottom of the bottle.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

I haven't gotten into it sufficiently to clearly identify the source of the fluid. Typically, I believe it's deteriorated hoses at the connection points. I also seem to recall a couple of reports of cracked reservoirs but I don't think that's my problem. I'll know with certainty next week.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ether_joe]

[quote name='Anchorman' date='Apr 12 2006, 06:32 AM']Stainless steel brake lines are now on the list, as is an inspection (and, possibly, an upgrade or replacement) of the oil pickup.  One more item being considered is the brake proportioning valve.  As the list lengthens, I have these ambivalent feelings...I'm sure you understand.[/quote]



Looks like some great TLC there Anchorman.



what's the 'oil pickup' ?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Etnier]

http://www.968forums.com/index.php?showtopic=2233&hl=

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

I've been following the oil pickup thread. I've decided to install a new stock pickup.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[ether_joe]

all right guys, I have no idea what that thingy does but I will ask my local 968 buddies to show me sometime.



Good luck AM with your RSB visit. I am going to have to make a pilgrimage to Pete's shop sometime.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[TheMirror]

How much is the labor for rod bearing replacement? Curious.



[quote name='Anchorman' date='Apr 11 2006, 03:08 PM']My car is approaching 135k miles, and my first visit to Pete revealed some things that needed to be done as the result of age, some as the result of mileage, and and some as the result of power steering fluid destruction.  For the moment, we've agreed on the following work plan, most or all to be done next week:



- Oil/filter change

- Coolant change, with installation of Audi HCV

- Fuel filter change

- Castor blocks (944 turbo version)

- Engine mounts (OEM)

- Steering rack (acquired from Jason Judd who went manual with his track car)

- Whatever it takes to fix the power steering fluid leak

- Front brake pads (whatever Pete is recommending)

- Front crossdrilled Zimmerman rotors

- Brake fluid change (ATE Blue)

- Timing and balance shaft belts (50k miles on the current set)

- M030 front and rear sway bars and bushings

- Rod bearings (with the mileage and a DE event coming up, better safe than sorry)



Then, sometime later this year (if I've been a good boy and saved up my money), an RS Barn head.  And, with Pete's help, maybe I'll finish the front caliper rebuild and powder coating project.



Oh, then I'm also going to be getting the Carrera III wheels with Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires (my summer wheels and tires were stolen a few weeks ago).



Good thing my wife doesn't get on this web site.



Have I missed anything?

[right][post="18954"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[94SilverCab]

Remember, in Anchor's case not as much as would otherwise be needed. He is already removing the power steering rack and cross member for motor mounts and caster blocks.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[TheMirror]

Indeed, which is accurate for the quote I am looking for. Is castor block removal needed to drop the pan and get to the rod bearings?



Cheers,

-Mirror



[quote name='94SilverCab' date='Apr 13 2006, 11:27 AM']Remember, in Anchor's case not as much as would otherwise be needed. He is already removing the power steering rack and cross member for motor mounts and caster blocks.

[right][post="19105"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mike]

Mirror,



My mechanic quoted me ~ $1200 to do the rod bearing replacement. Steering rack and sway bar must be removed and he said he just separates the A-arms from the tie rod ends and lets them hang down to get to the cross member. I was looking into this recently because my oil pressure readings were low on the dash gauge but it turned out to be a problem with the sender.



mike

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[TheMirror]

Ah, cool. Good info, thanks!



[quote name='mike' date='Apr 13 2006, 01:37 PM']Mirror,



My mechanic quoted me ~ $1200 to do the rod bearing replacement.  Steering rack and sway bar must be removed and he said he just separates the A-arms from the tie rod ends and lets them hang down to get to the cross member.  I was looking into this recently because my oil pressure readings were low on the dash gauge but it turned out to be a problem with the sender.



mike

[right][post="19111"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Dave]

At 145k miles, my '92 needed a head gasket. Not a tragic failure in my case, but I would start to set aside a few $$ for that day.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Anchorman]

My "head gasket" plan ties in with a Variocam maintenance, which would include a new chain and pads. Instead of doing those, my plan is to simply swap heads for an RS Barn stage whatever it is head. That way, in addition to the new Variocam stuff, I also get the equivalent of a valve job, etc. First, though, I have to save up some more nickels and dimes.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Dave]

That's an excellent plan. My "gee, I better change the Variocam chain and pads before next race season" lead to simultaneous discovery of a small oil leak at the head gasket.



Long story short, all Variocam maintenance, valve job, and head gasket became the same project.



Before discovering the head gasket failure, I was thinking of doing it as a PM anyway. Good to catch it now before I spend all summer north of 5500 rpm <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />



Anyway, seems to be a natural combo for "while you're in there". If bottom end is freshened and none of the front seals are leaking, virtually new engine outta that deal.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.