[Cloud9...68]

By the way, getting back to the topic of wheel lug torque values, Forgeline Wheels makes an aftermarket center lock conversion kit that looks like it would be the ideal solution for people who need to drive their cars to the track, but don't want to be driving on their racing tires on the street:



http://www.forgeline...conversion.html



And yes, they also call for a hefty torque value of 300 lb-ft. The only drawback, other than the cost, is that they add what must be at least a couple pounds of unsprung weight due to the adapter and hardware. They definitely look the business, though, and only having to take four lugs on and off to swap your wheels at the track instead of 20 is pretty appealing.

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[craigawoodman]

Cloud,



Do you know the thread size and pitch? I can work it out from stress/strain relationships. Would also need to know what the material is or grade of stud.



Craig

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[Cloud9...68]

Craig,



I don't know the thread size or pitch offhand; I don't have a thread pitch gauge, so I'll have to go buy one. But I also don't know the material or grade of the stud (overall, I'd say I'm pretty useless here...). Hopefully someone who knows will chime in...



I sure hope I don't have to replace the studs. Pete described in another thread that to remove the studs, you have to heat the block in a giant over up to something like 300 degrees F, iirc. Installing the new ones is also a non-trivial operation, and not one for an amateur. New studs aren't cheap, either. I know Lear35A had a stud come loose when he was torquing his head, necessitating their replacement, so obviously this sort of thing can happen to these engines. I'm curious as to how common it is, though.



My gut feeling is it typically isn't needed, otherwise, freshening the head, and/or replacing the head gasket, both things that are a good idea on these engines at around 100K miles, would turn into a massive undertaking. I know Scott Collins recently had his head rebuilt by RS Barn, and I know he didn't replace the studs. But then, his is a street car, and mine is going to be primarily a track car.

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[craigawoodman]

Given how frequenlt my head has been removed - I also think it is most likely not required given the low initial torque value. But there may come a time when it is (after enough removal/installation events).

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[Cloud9...68]

Makes sense. Hopefully the current one is mine's first...

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[ds968]

I had it done at 100k+ miles and no need for any special treatment, they came off and then back on without any problems.

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks, that's reassuring. I'm sure your experience in the norm.

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[Monstrous4Banger]

Just tack weld a bolt to the end of the old headstud, and wrench it off. Normally theyre not replaced for a gasket change AFAIK. If your doing a full rebuild might as well though. I know they can be a pain to get out of the block sometimes. Personally, I would put in new studs in your situation. Im sure others might not agree, but it doesnt hurt. Especially if your going to be riding it hard, and racing it.

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[Cloud9...68]

Your method sounds pretty easy, which raises the obvious question - if this is all it takes to get the studs out of the block, why does Pete put the block in an oven to heat it up? Also, do you really need to weld a nut to the stud (I don't own a welder)? Wouldn't the double-nut method also work, or do you need the strength of a weld to hold the nut in place? I suppose you'd need to find a way to secure the block while turning the studs out - mine's on an engine stand. And then what about the installation of new studs? I seem to recall some special procedure for that as well.



If this is something I could do myself, and have minimal likelihood of messing it up, I might consider it. But Pete's description of the process made it sound like something best left to a professional.

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[flash]

i think there is some special kind of loctite in there, and he might be heating it up to soften that up. also, when heated, aluminum expands faster than steel, so that might free up the threads a bit.

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[Cloud9...68]

Flash,



Yes, you're right, there is a specific type of Loctite on the studs, and it would make sense that heating the block would help soften it. I don't know, I'd like to get some more input on this. As a point of reference Lindsey Racing charges $90 to extract the studs. I know Lear35A had to replace his, but I believe he had someone do it. And given his considerable knowledge, talent and experience, this gives me pause...

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[Monstrous4Banger]

I have ARP studs in my turbo. Heating it would certainly help, because of the thermodynamics Flash mentioned. Mine came out easy, Ive been told that isnt always the case. The block we used had very low mileage. No way to really tell how difficult yours will be. Have the shop install them, I believe they used loctite when they built mine. He always has some on the bench when Im there. I can ask if you want, and get specifics. Im sure Pete could answer the question of what to use when installing them, if the shop installing the top end doesnt know.

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