[Cloud9...68]

The fabricky/soft cardboard-feeling material that connects the magnets to the plastic casing of what I believe are the mid-range speakers (you can tell I'm a real audiophile [img]style_emoticons/<#EMO_DIR#>/rolleyes.gif[/img] ) have dry-rotted away, so I need new ones. The speakers I'm referring to go into the bottoms of the door panels, and they're part number 944 645 419 00. They're 8 ohms, which are hard to find in replacement speakers, so I'd have to go through the dealer to buy new ones. Does anybody here who has upgraded their speakers by chance have a pair of these laying around? I imagine most of them have rotted out like mine, but I'm wondering if there are any out there that haven't that I could take off somebody's hands for a reasonable price. I have no interest in upgrading or modifying my car's audio system; just want to get what's in there back to proper working order. Thanks.

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[Jamie '92 968]

You could try Parts Express.
They have a lot of replacement drivers for speakers and they also have speaker repair kits.

Here is a link to a speaker that I found with about 30 seconds of searching.
It might work, and it's under $12, but I'd suggest calling them with the dimensions of the midrange and see what they can come up with.
http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.c...tnumber=264-880

My mid driver surrounds are dry rotted too.
I doubt you can find any out there that aren't

Good luck,
Jamie

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[Cloud9...68]

Thanks! It looks like these may just work, and they're a fraction of the price of the originals. Probably better quality, too. I'll give them a call to make sure they'll work. I'll let everybody know what I find, because, as you say, most peoples' mid range drivers are probably dry-rotted, so there could be an opportunity for a substantial improvement in our cars' stereo sound quality for a very low cost.

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[flash]

those are 8 ohm

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[Cloud9...68]

Yes, I saw. They look promising...

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[flash]

i missed that above - i really thought the factory stuff was lower - now i get to go look at the crossover to see how they did that

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[jg968]

I took some measurements on the door speaker and added them to the photo. This is the Nokia one people have discussed on this forum. I do not have the hi-fi sound option.

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[williamoss]

Have you tried Cruchfields?



William Moss

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[jg968]

Here's a picture with larger text - sorry about the first one.



I measured the DC impedance on my Fluke meter. It was a little over 3 ohms so I believe this is a 4 ohm speaker.

Here's a picture with larger text - sorry about the first one.



I measured the DC impedance on my Fluke meter. It was a little over 3 ohms so I believe this is a 4 ohm speaker.

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[jg968]

Here's an updated photo with larger text

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[jg968]

There's a 5" woofer available from PartsExpress. It is their Dayton brand, item# 295-370. It has nearly identical diameter, 4 15/16", it fits the cutout and the depth. Best of all, it comes in a 4 ohm version.$30 each. Cross it over with the existing tweeter (or favorite tweeter of your choice) and add a subwoofer in the rear cubby and you'd have a pretty good sounding system, I am sure. I've used Dayton brand driver before in home audio projects. They are very good products.



Jerry

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[DaveN]

We won't cover electrical theory here but the impedance of a speaker is Z which is an AC inductance and can't be related to a DC. Porsches original speaker is 8 ohms so if you plan on using the original tweeter and crossover (capacitor) you will have to buy an 8 ohm speaker. If you use a 4 ohms speaker you will move the crossover point and unbalance the amp as it will be driving 2.67 ohms on one leg. Probably not a big deal but it will be a different sound level (dB) than the other 3.

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[jg968]

Yes, all good points. I would only replace them in pairs (L&R). As far as the head unit, I have an aftermarket unit meant to drive 4 ohm loads, and I would consider the crossover on any swap.



Speaker AC impedances can be estimated by taking the DC resistance. Speaker manufacturers even supply the value, usually called Re. 8 ohm speakers usually read about 6 ohms DC resistance, and 4 ohm speakers usually read around 3 ohms. I took mine out and measured it without anything else connected. It read 3.1 ohm. There are no markings on it to tell what it could be.



What makes you think they are 8 ohm?



Jerry

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[DaveN]

We will have to let the simpler answer reign for now <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/smile.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> But Impedance (reactance) and resistance can not be related as simply as you state. A subwoofer can reach a peak of 45 ohms Z and rated as 6 ohms, a ratio of almost 8:1. It's all based on Fq, resonance is the only time it will come close to the DC rating. Windings and materials will also impact the DC/AC relationships greatly. <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> IHMO



As to the "What makes you think they are 8 ohm?" If that was directed to me and not Flashs' post 17. When I replaced my speakers they were the original Nokias and they were stamped 8 ohms. Hope all this helps your quest to a better sound system. I changed all my stuff out 2 years ago with Infinity components, added the rear speaker door/cubby mod and built a small 8" sub into the rear left wheel well. Much better than the original but still not quite as "lively" as I would like even thought the SPL ratings on my drivers are quite good.



Cheers, Dave

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[Rap]

Dave, your post said that you switched out your whole system 2 years ago. May I ask what that whole system was and did it include all of your speakers?

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[DaveN]

There is a thread here if you search for it where a lot of the change out was discussed. It basically covers the discussion of what kinds of speakers were suitable and what would fit. Eventually the DIY for the rear speaker enclosures came from Flash as we were both thinging about doing this as well.

I don't have the 10 speaker system, wish I did <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> , so it wasn't as costly. I replaced the fronts with component Infinity Refernence Series drivers and the rear with Infinity Reference 6.5" co-axials. I mounted an 8" sub in the left rear wheel well and sealed that area, removed the spare time and put a small (by 18 year old standards) mono amp in to drive the sub.

I did the mod to fill in the quarterpanel cavity and create a speaker box for the rears. I also cut out the grille behind the speaker cover to allow more sound out, this was the piece that would have been removed if I had the 2 component drivers in the 10 speaker system (I think).

My head is a higher end Pioneer that lets you adjust almost every cross-over point and slope so it works failry well when trying to get the most out of the system.

As usual it all sounds great in the garage, not so great at 100 <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[Lim Yong]

Many of us upgraded our sound system, also attempted to quiet the car down with dynamat etc.

best bet IMHO, replace front speakers with better seperates, add amp and a sub as others mentioned.



Mine is a Sony radio with digital sound staging, front MB quarts seperates with the tweeters in the original housing,

2 8" subs in the rear wheel wells with an amp. In my previous 968 I had the subs in the spare wheel well, I think that is a better solution for the subs.



When I was adventurous,I though about putting the front mids in the area when the 944 had the front speakers, that would have required cutting so I never did it, tho I think the sound stage would be better.



lastly, I do suggest getting seperates that have the tweeter crossover to be as low as possible, that will help will the

sound stage. When combined with my deck's adjustability, I get what I am looking for.

Luck

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[flash]

i'm actually considering raising the tweeter crossover point - in a 2 way system, it's too low now, and the area around 2k gets dodgy



i am starting to think about completely changing the system AGAIN - this time i would cut into my door panels and put a low mid where it should be, and make it a 6.5" with a real magnet on it - probably the JL Audio C3-650s like i just put in the SL550



that would also allow me to convert my existing speaker areas to storage compartments like the 993 has



pretty sure i'm changing decks too - i want a touch screen - not sure which one yet though - all depends on the 951 boost gauge compatibility

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