[tamathumper]

Might be a good excuse to replace those old, crumbly battery cables in the process?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BeBe]

How do the cables route up to the engine?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

inside the fender, then down into the rocker, and then up to the right rear well.



there is quite a bit involved in doing it right. isolation blocks so you can mary the cable together and not lose voltage, 4200 strand 0 gauge cable (not cheap), gold terminals, yada yada.



all in you are looking at a couple hundred bucks to to it, and then you have to go with a gel type battery, as you can't run lead/acid in the trunk

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BeBe]

Is there some sort of frame or platform that goes down into the well?



I was out in the garage tonight attaching an adapter to the battery so I can hook/unhook my battery maintainer quickly. If the car sits more than about 1-1/2 weeks without being driven, it won't start. I'm not sure if I could figure out what's draining the battery, so I'll just drive the car at least once a week and hook up the maintainer if I think I'm going to go beyond the starting window.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

yup - i made a saddle that drops down in there and is suspended at the same attachment points.



the drain is quite possibly your stereo. many of the new decks have high drains. if the faceplate is removable, remove it. that will stop the drain.



the other thing to check are the lights. the hood light is a prime suspect, as is the glove box light. go out in the morning and see if they are hot.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BeBe]

I already removed the hood and glovebox lights. I'm not sure if the light on the hood even worked. The switch on the glovebox light was not very crisp turning on and off, so it could have the culprit. After doing those, I haven't let it sit long enough to go dead, so I don't know if it helped. I do have a removable faceplate on the stereo. That's easy enough to remove. Thanks for the suggestions.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

no worries. i found out about the deck the hard way. i'm much better now.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[BeBe]

Weather should be nice enough for me to drive it tomorrow. Then, I'll leave it untethered from the trickle charger/battery maintainer for a while with the stereo faceplate off and see what happens.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[jferraro17]

*thread resurrection alert*





Any traction on the rear battery kit?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

nope. not likely to happen either, as i am getting out of the 968 game, and transferring over my line to another company. i doubt they will want to get into it, as it is not going to be a popular item.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

jferraro,



Why the interest in the rear battery location? Is yours primarily a street car, or does it see a lot of track time? If the latter, there are a number of good lightweight batteries that you can put in the stock location and save close to 40 lb off the front end. I've been running a Deltran Battery Tender BTL35A480C in my mostly-track 968 for about six months now (so through a central Texas summer), and have been very pleased with its performance. I wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver, but if yours is only for "pleasure" use, and you don't mind throwing it on a charger every now and then, it might be a good option. But as Flash says, the chances of a rear battery mount kit are nil.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Rap]

40lbs.? Hmm. What's the rear hatch again? I know I'm slightly off thread here!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Cloud9...68]

Yeah, the Deltran battery is around 4 lbs, and I believe the stock battery is something north of 40 lb, so nearly a 40 lb savings. The hatch is on my "diet list" as well, but I'm really starting to get nightmares about the consequences of driving like a maniac on the track with essentially a full race suspension and super-griipy tires on 23-year-old cast hubs, so I think a new set of billet hubs from Racers Edge is my next major investment. Talk about off topic!

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[jferraro17]

Cloud--



Its a street car, pleasure/hobby car. One of the first things I did was pull the weight cylinder out from behind the aft right wheel (Cab). Stumbled across this thread, and thought I'd ask.



Honestly, I haven't driven the car enough (before or after) to feel a difference, but seemed like moving it made sense. Light weight GEL is probably a better solution....certainly worked well in my RV-8 <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.