[ds968]

Sounds like a good idea , if this happens again , I’ll have the shop crimp the connectors . 

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[lbpesq]

I recently had the radio/CD/cassette unit suddenly stop working in my Lexus Hybrid.  (Don't laugh, I have a "cassette" that acts as a bluetooth receiver when inserted in the cassette deck).     The first thing I did was pull the fuse.  It looked fine visually and tested okay with the continuity tester.   I then wiped off the connectors, blew out the socket, and replaced the fuse.  Everything started working again.   Don't take those plug-in connections for granted!

 

Bill

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[ds968]

I still have not gotten around to taking the car to the shop to have them crimp the connectors in the relays box .  And whilst this  : “ A lose contact will produce heat by itself.... in this case the connector will lose contact when getting hot. When hot no connection. When it cools down it crimps and will connect again. A bad contact has a resistance. And resistance produce heat.....” makes perfect sense to me, this thought came to mind :  there are a lot of relays in there, why would this be happening ONLY to the DME contacts ?!  There are no problems with the functions which any of the other relays control, only the DME . This is puzzling .   Maybe the DME pins are made of a different material than the other relays ?  

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[Petethepug]

Why not add a solid state DME? It was one of the first things I yanked after purchasing the car. The F9 fan control relay was also added. Both versions give instant diagnostic info on the fans and 4 major components in the start up system.



From there you can write out any variables in the relays and diagnose what might really be going on. Durham was telling me my Corrado g60 and the 968 use the same idle stabilizer valve. Nice to know as I have an occasional issue with cold engine shut down at the first 5 min of driving. Ez part swap diagnostic for the ISV.

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[ds968]

“ Solid state “ DME ?  Where do you buy those ?   I have the URO brand DME now ( switched from the OE which was the one that started to manifest the first symptoms ).    Post edit :  just searched for it, and two sources came up ; Lindsey Racing and Focus9 technology   ( direct ). Both are selling the same brand DME made by FTECH  ( F9T ). with the diagnostic lights and both places list it at about $ 105. But they show as “ not available “ so I’ll have to call .   I think our DME the 993 DME are exactly the same , but not sure .   

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[Petethepug]

https://www.ftech9.com/new-products/993-...WM1NPs3Azi



https://www.ftech9.com/new-products/evm5...vtb66x27i0



I got mine directly from F9. There was a weird 7-10 day no contact period after purchase then, boom. Tracking was emailed and shipped from AZ.





Im not sure why but the 968 vert is not mentioned.

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[ds968]

Just ordered mine directly from F9 also.  Ordered earlier today, received notice that it’s been shipped just a couple of hours later .   

 

The problem may not be the DME itself , but for $ 115 , it’s a fairly cheap “ process of elimination “ test ..   

 

Next week I might have a bit more time to deal with the Durametric issue and call Durham .. the last two weeks have been insane at the office and on weekends my wife and I have had non stop plans also .. little or no time left to pay attention to car issues.   

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[Petethepug]

No F9 fan control relay too? Between the Saratoga glass sunroofs coming back, these relays and replacement printed circuit boards with new, integrated LEDs for each and every bulb in the cluster, these P cars are getting some love.

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[ds968]

No F9 fan control relay too? Between the Saratoga glass sunroofs coming back, these relays and replacement printed circuit boards with new, integrated LEDs for each and every bulb in the cluster, these P cars are getting some love.

No, the fans are working perfectly, I don’t change anything unless it’s broken .  Or suspected broken …

 

( with one exception ; I’ll change the timing belt before it’s broken …learned that the hard way .   ) 

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[ds968]

I’ll test this after a half hour or so drive when the engine is hot and see if the symptoms persist , but in the meantime , at least it looks cool with all those LED lights on .. 

 

   

 

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[ds968]

Well, that was a short lived moment of hope .     .   After a 20 minute drive, the same symptoms surfaced.   Lucky I deliberately drove around it in close proximity to the house so if I had to tow it , would be a quick , convenient trip.   Barely made it in the garage, shut it off , waited about ten minutes and then tried to start it again .  No luck .  It dies within two seconds of firing up.    But it’ll start tomorrow morning without any problems . That I know for a fact ; it did just that the last three times.  

So the next task is to call Durham, get the Durametric issue resolved, and then take it to the shop with whatever info the Durametric diagnosis indicates, and let them figure out the fix ( including the box ports crimping, just for good measure ) .

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[Petethepug]

I had read in another forum that the ss DME settled down a rough idle and stall at stop light issue.



Thats exactly what it cured on my 94 and the stall at stop sign when cold issue went from weekly to monthly. Hopefully it goes to gone.



I always jump on homemade stuff like this right away regardless of the cars current state. I see brilliant work disappear overnight because guys who make stuff like this do something funny called retirement.



Got my hands on the Preciouss rectangular special switches plus I like the pretty lights!

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[ds968]

Our posts crossed in cyberspace at the same time 

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[ds968]

No one to blame but myself .. I procrastinated on getting to the durametric issue resolution time after after time , and now I may have to put the matter on hold for a few months ; I just started a major project at work that will require top priority , including spending considerable time during weekends , which is really the only time I have to deal with the 968 .   Oh well, like I said, no one else to blame .

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[Petethepug]

I was thinking it sounds like the hall sensor. An almost impossible animal to diagnose from either wear or the the harness wires disintegrating from heat.



Ironically my automatic espresso machine has a bad hall sensor I need to replace. Im on my back up machine right now.

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[ds968]

Wouldn’t a hall sensor manifest symptoms at other times as well , other than only when the engine gets hot ?  If the wires disintegrated from heat, it would not function at all, would it ?   That’s what’s so weird about this thing ; for example, if it was the ICV it would act up in many more situations, not just at the point when the car engine heats up a lot .  But it does seem some sensor or some other component simply does not like heat .. ugh.    And I’d have to use the durametric at that point when the problem exists , if I do it in the morning , it would not show any faults , because the cars starts and runs perfectly fine, right ? 

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[Petethepug]

Just referencing from the two occasions when the supercharged g60 was at Yates Porsche/Capo VW. It took them 3 weeks to diagnose a random stall out on the motor was a worn intermediate shaft. It allowed play in the distributor timing even with a new distributor installed.



The hall sensor issue was wear on the harness where it passed through a grommet into the distributor. Both issues were handled by crack technicians who inherited the problem from 4-5 other techs who couldnt diagnose the issue.



Both are uncommon issues on VAG 90s I-4 motors that can be ruled out with a hall sensor replacement based upon thermal breakdown and operating hours and verifying theres no excessive slop in the distributor rotor when moved by hand.



The hall sensor replacement is cheaper than the diagnostic time and making an led tester and the process to condemn it.

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[ds968]

That’s good to know ( hall sensor replacement being relatively inexpensive ) .  I’ll add that to the list . 

 

The distributor and cables are new ( had that replaced recently , because one of the spark plug cables connection was frayed so while replacing the whole set , I replaced the distributor as well , since it was the original one with 115,000 miles on it.. ) 

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[Petethepug]

Thats good, the hall sensor is inside the dizzy. IF the stalling issues began After the dizzy was replaced, be suspect of the hall sensor if thats when the stalling issues began.



A dizzy thats been dropped or banged can damage the sensor. The next time the car dies, thats when you need to have someone with a led test light to verify if you have a rouge hall sensor.

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[ds968]

Noted, but what’s  a “ dizzy”  ? 

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