[Harvey]

I used 3m windo-weld super fast urethane #08609. Black, really nasty stuff, use lots of rags and 3m adhesive remover. I took a chance and scraped all the paint I could between the glass and the frame off (my glass was only delaminated at the top) and then cleaned the area with acetone and various degreasers...then I did the unthinkable, I flexed the glass away from the metal frame with the wooden part of wooden clothes pins that I'd taken apart (BTW, I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS TRICKY PROCEDURE..it's just a description of what I did). And then I used a caulk gun (on fine setting) to force as much of the urethane adhesive into the crack/opening (both sides). I also used a large syringe without a needle in it. Also used wax paper to keep wrong stuff from sticking between hatch frame and car...and let it dry. It's worked great for nearly a year even though I wasn't able to get urethane all the way through opening I'd made between the frame and glass. It worked for me but I was willing to take a chance on braking the rear deck glass. After reading up on this I didn't like the idea of "sawing" the other 3/4 of the glass adhesive loose and regluing the whole window. While that would be preferable, I KNOW I'd have broken the glass that way! So, I took my chances and it worked out great for me. I wouldn't reccommend any adhesive other than 3m windo-weld super fast urethane #08609 since it grips like the devil herself. Nasty stuff to clean off glass or carpet or body parts so be ready with lots of cleaner and drop cloths. I'd do it again. I also sealed the entire perimeter of the glass on the inside and outside with a fine bead that I smoothed out with my finger since the tube was large. I don't think I'll ever see a leak there again. Worked for me.



While I was at it, I cut a small hole in the weather strip and snaked a small 1/8" hose up it starting from about the middle of each side and up past the hatch hinge. Saved me from buying a new weather strip as it put the shape back in the smooshed down part of the strip. Again, I don't recommend it since too stiff a tube might stress things. I went careful...and it's working also. Closed the hole with some silicone and protective wax paper on closing the hatch while it cured.



Harvey





__________________

'94 968 Coupe

'85 928 S

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[Spieln968]

Harvey,



Did you remove the hatch when you did this procedure or did you seal it while it was on the car?



If you left the hatch on the car did you close it while it dried or leave the hatch open?



Did you somehow clamp the glass to the frame while it dried?



Where did you buy the sealer?



Thanks for the write up. I need to do this to my hatch this spring.

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[Harvey]

[quote name='Spieln968' date='Jan 24 2006, 12:45 PM']Harvey,



Did you remove the hatch when you did this procedure or did you seal it while it was on the car?



If you left the hatch on the car did you close it while it dried or leave the hatch open?



Did you somehow clamp the glass to the frame while it dried?



Where did you buy the sealer?



Thanks for the write up.  I need to do this to my hatch this spring.

[right][post="15005"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I did not remove the hatch. I clamped pieces in place as I worked then before it dried, I put waxed paper around the edges and closed the hatch so it would dry and conform rather than bind. I did a Google search and bought the 3M goop from some place back east. It's not at your local shop unless you live in a large town. Body shops have it I guess. It comes in a large tube for a caulk gun. I used the whole tube before I was through.



Also, I used various syringes with long tips...and wide holes as I could get to squirt the warmed up glue into the relatively tiny crack I was working with. I was fearful of breaking the expensive glass the whole time. The frame is pretty loosey goosey so it gave a bit to allow me to spread the frame from the glass. I dremel tooled the center out of a flat blad screwdriver to get the specialized molding nuts off. Best to work without the molding where you can.



I saw a 944 last night with the same malady and instantly I knew that I could fix it..but I wouldn'/t do it for the guy because I have no guarantee of not breaking his glass. He said that two glass shops had turned him down for the same reason.



So, I figured, what do I have to lose? I would, however, hate to try and buy another rear glass. Finding one is one thing and shipping it safely is another.



Hope this helps.



I think I said it 12 times...but this black glue is really messy use dropcloths and lots of rags with 3m adhesive cleaner before it dries. It's hard to get off. Also, I can't emphasize cleaning the glass well so it will adhere.



Harvey

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[Harvey]

In response of one of numerous inquiries I've received on the way I did the hatch glass repair...here's more.



Harvey

=============

I was VERY careful (and scared the whole time that I was going to crack the glass, glass breaks really easy). So no guarantees...but it worked for me. My frame was slightly less than half the top frame delaminated so it was harder to flex the thin frame to get sealant in. I used a very thin razor blade to scrape as much of the old paint there off as I could. If the paint's not sticking good, it'll come loose soon. And if it don't come off with a razor I figured it still had some life left in the adhesion.



The sealant I used was gastly nasty black stuff that was pretty thin (I think I said that a dozen times already!) and it got on everything it seemed so I spread out a big disposable drop cloth (not plastic) in the trunk, removed all removable pieces of trim (lost a few slotted screws), sat the sealant (same 3m stuff that glass shops use) near the wood stove (or warm spot) in the house for the night to warm it and improve flow viscosity. Used various small syringes that I filled with the sealant...syringes w/long thin tips that I had to clip off to get an acceptable flow and still be able to work the tip into about the center of the glass/frame area...squirted like heck..and it hard pushing it out the syringe tip. (remember I spread CAREFULLY the frame from the glass enough that I didn't want to break the glass but was chancy anyway. then squirted as much as possible so that when I removed the wooden clothes pins holding glass and frame apart (you may have to use something thinner?) it would squish the sealant over the inside. Then I cleaned the extra that squished out off with the cleaner and rags. Just barely spread the trim pieces...don't bend them or it will not be easy to get back into their original place, if ever possible. A new deck is expensive.



BTW before I did all the above, I razor bladed off all the paint I could, then used acetone and alcohol to clean the rest to get best adhesion. Some people use other techniques. I thought of sticking in some 600 grit sandpaper to get something more grip for the adhesive to cling to but there wasn't room really.



So, then, when I got the adhesive in between the glass and frame as best I could, I took out the wooden spreaders and then used some clean wooden clothes pin pieces to sandwich between the small clamps I used to squeeze the frame back to the glass. That is, clamp jaw, clothes pin piece, frame, glass, frame, clothes pin piece, other jaw of clamo. I didn't clamp tight..but just enought to be have a firm connection without risk of stressing the glass at that point and breaking the glass. I think I used 4 small clamps on the top. Oh yeah...I let it sit for a week before using the car. I figured that I wanted a complete cure. Think about it, air cures the stuff and if it's relativevely tight, air won't be getting to it for a while.



I then, after removing more trim, I cleaned and used the remaining sealant around the entire outside and inside edges of the rear deck window just to keep moisture from even entering that area. I spread smooth and into cracks using my finger (and cleaner/rags).



Again, going on a year and nothing seems to have changed. Lots have predicted that it will separate again and I'll deal with that if it happens. I don't think it's going to separate the way I did it. Hope this helps. Good luck. I'm sure that this was easier than pulling the whole window off and "doing it right". Since some of the black primer paint between the frame and glass wouldn't come off easy (I tried), and since I cleaned it good, I'm hoping that I get just as good adhesion as I would have doing it the factory way.



Also, keep lots of adhesive cleaner/remover around and lots of rags to clean up. You won't believe how messy this stuff is. It's thinner than silicone and gets all over.



The fix really looks good now though. Not totally professional but only a glass guy would probably notice.



Harvey

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[Spieln968]

I finally did this project last week and am happy to say that it appears to have worked and I did not break the glass. My glass was separated across the entire top and was quite loose from the frame on the passenger side. The only problem I had was getting a few small air pockets in the sealant that you can see when you look at the seam. I think I am going to apply a small strip of paint on the outside of the glass to cover all of this up. I did have to spend most of a day with a razor blade cutting out the old sealant. This was necessary to make a gap large enough to scrap off the old paint and squeeze in the sealant. My glass was also loose around the corners and the gap there is much smaller. I was able to get some sealer in those gaps too but you can still see some areas that are not sealed. The glass and frame were sprung some so I applied some weight on the glass to keep it in place while the sealant dried. I let it set for 2 days to cure. Actually, so far, I am quite happy with the results. I am sure I could do it better and quicker if I were to do it again.

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[Harvey]

[quote name='Spieln968' date='Apr 28 2006, 08:56 AM']I finally did this project last week and am happy to say that it appears to have worked and I did not break the glass. ....[right][post="19993"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Congratulations! It sure worked fine for me. I'm careful now when I open/close the hatch and it's holding fine after a year.



968 hatches are so expensive that I bought a spare deck w/glass from a 951 in case I ever break the 968 glass I'll replace it with this glass. BTW, the 951 hatch easily fit in the back of my 968. Just turn it sideways.



Harvey

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[TheMirror]

[quote name='Harvey' date='Apr 28 2006, 04:21 PM']Congratulations!  It sure worked fine for me. I'm careful now when I open/close the hatch and it's holding fine after a year.



968 hatches are so expensive that I bought a spare deck w/glass from a 951 in case I ever break the 968 glass I'll replace it with this glass. BTW, the 951 hatch easily fit in the back of my 968.  Just turn it sideways.



Harvey

[right][post="20041"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Very interesting.....951 hatches fit 968s?

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[Harvey]

[quote name='TheMirror' date='Apr 28 2006, 05:45 PM']Very interesting.....951 hatches fit 968s?

[right][post="20043"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I've not dummied the 951/944 hatch into place on my 968 but I'm told that they probably fit but that the hinges may be different...and you can't switch the rear 968 spoiler over to the 951 hatch. Dunno...never tried it. But a 968 with a 951 hatch would be better than paying over $5k for a new Porsche unit (as some have been quoted). However, the glass is supposed to interchange...it's just a LOT of tedious work getting the old glass out and the new glass into the 968 frame. I've not done it (yet) so I have no details. The measurements on the glass look to be identical to me with a tape measure. It's my insurance. Part of the problem is that the hatch glass frames are pretty flimsy and the pressure from the hatch shocks seem to put lots of stress on the glass and frame at the top, causing separation after some years. I'm hoping that I'll never need to use the 951/944 glass but if I don't I can always sell it later for what I paid for it. I have extra brains on hand too, just in case. I got them at a good price so why not? If in a bind and you need them quickly, you pay out the nose. Brain failures (and MAF failures) on the older 928s are too frequent. Someday the 968s will be older and the same thing may happen.



Harvey

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[Harvey]

It's one year later and all's well with my hatch repair...no change. I do, however, wish I could find a source for the flat black paint that helps protect the glue from UV.



Harvey

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[sasilverbullet]

Harvey - go to your local auto glass repair shop and they should sell you a can of the 3M stuff.

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[Harvey]

[quote name='sasilverbullet' post='33662' date='Apr 3 2007, 09:41 AM']Harvey - go to your local auto glass repair shop and they should sell you a can of the 3M stuff.[/quote]



Will do. Thanks!



Harvey

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