[Lemming]

Well, I've decided to put my tax refund to good use and spruce up the 95 coupe (100K miles). Most of my money has been going into the track car and my DD is feeling left out. I already have all the belts, rollers, front engine reseal kit, oil pump kit, new waterpump, and variocam chain guides. I've done most of this already on my track car except the variocam guides; does anyone know of a DIY writeup?



Since I'm doing so much I've decided to drop the engine and give it a good going over. The oil pan is leaking so the casket will be replaced while the engine is upside down on the stand. What else should I consider doing while I'm in there?



I also plan on replacing the clutch since I'm still running the original and it's is starting to slip a bit. I thought about going with a SPEC clutch but think that the SACHS should do the job. Has anyone used the SACHS sport clutch the Paragon offeres?



The other mechanical items that need to be repaired will be to either rebuild the power steering rack and replace all the lines or swap over to a manual rack. I'm undecided at this point.



All suspension bushings need to be replaced and that will be done. I may upgrade to the M030 sway bars while I'm at it. I'm not going to change the suspension too much other than to put on some Koni Yellows (already have them on the back).



Once all this mechanical work is done, it's time to deal with the cosmetics. I need new rubber around the side skirts and I never have replaced the stone guards that I removed. The wheels need to either be removed, stripped, and repainted or replaced. That will have to wait till I see how the budget is coming along.



Sounds like a few weeks worth of work for the diy'er, what do you think?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[RPM]

Your refund must be a bit bigger than mine... sounds like a nice plan.



Funny, but just last week I discovered that my tax refund check is going to 968 maintenance... belts, rollers, front seal kit. Seem the shop that did the job 22k ago did not replace the front seals when they did the timing belt. My wife is not amused.



The rubber on the side panels is very tricky to refit since the panels themselves have probably warped a bit over time.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[968bill]

A relatively simple/cheap but critical item is the rubber brake lines on the front brakes. The ones on my new-to-me '93 appear original and there's nothing in the service records of them being replaced so I have new ones on order w/ Paragon. I've been told the rubber lines should be replaced every 5 - 7 years so after 13 they're past due IMO.



Update:

When I first looked at mine (in the rear) all I saw were the solid parts. When I got the parts from Paragon there were 4 lines, 2 were about 6" long so I looked again this time tracing the rears back from the calipers I found the short rubber sections hiding in front of the torsion tubes(?), haven't had time to replace the rears yet but the fronts are done and the Pagid Sport pads are in. After the rear lines are replaced I'll bleed the system w/ ATE Super Blue and should be good to go for next months DE in Memphis.



Still have the O2 sensor and a few other items to do but she's coming along.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

good call - did you order the stainless ones?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Dave]

Debates rage on this one, but I change rod bearings and nuts on any 944/968 variant that has the pan off...

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lemming]

[quote name='968bill' date='Mar 7 2006, 09:25 PM']A relatively simple/cheap but critical item is the rubber brake lines on the front brakes. The ones on my new-to-me '93 appear original and there's nothing in the service records of them being replaced so I have new ones on order w/ Paragon. I've been told the rubber lines should be replaced every 5 - 7 years so after 13 they're past due IMO.

[right][post="17048"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Yep, good call. I replaced the rotors and pads shortly after I got the car last year. I have the Paragon stainless on my track car, might as well put them on the DD.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[968bill]

[quote name='flash' date='Mar 7 2006, 08:37 PM']good call - did you order the stainless ones?

[right][post="17050"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]

I was going to use the OEM rubber ones but since the stainless were half the price AND were DOT certified I went with the stainless. They were OOS @ Paragon for another few days but Jason expects to have them in by this Fri. last I heard. It will be another couple of weeks before I can put them on anyhow. I also ordered the Pagid Sport pads since this is also a street car.



Just curious, on this spell checker, since it doesn't know words like "Pagid" and I tell it to Learn it does it learn it just for me or does it learn for everyone that uses this spell check? IMWTK

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[flash]

sweet - i have them too - you'll likely never have to worry about the lines again

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[bibbetson]

While you have the pan off, I would get the oil pickup tube reinforced. Although this is mostly a race car modification, it couldn't hurt on a DD and would add piece of mind that the pickup tube isn't going to crack at the base.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[mike]

Tim,



I saw this link on .net that has some good info for your chain guide replacement:



http://www.968s.com/DIYPDF/Procedure%20for...20Camshafts.pdf



mike

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lemming]

[quote name='mike' date='Mar 8 2006, 01:58 PM']Tim,



I saw this link on .net that has some good info for your chain guide replacement:



http://www.968s.com/DIYPDF/Procedure%20for...20Camshafts.pdf



mike

[right][post="17088"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



Yea, I've seen that one, unfortunately it only discusses the inspection, not replacement.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lemming]

[quote name='Dave' date='Mar 7 2006, 10:07 PM']Debates rage on this one, but I change rod bearings and nuts on any 944/968 variant that has the pan off...

[right][post="17055"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



I've been debating that as well? How do I determine if I need standard or oversized replacements?

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[jww968]

If the crank has not been machined, then standard size should work. If a bearing has spun before, then the crank would have been machined and oversized bearings used. The no. 2 bearing on my 924S seized at Barber, so the "spare" engine you sold me is a spare no more. I am replacing the rod bearings in it before I put it into the car.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.

[Lemming]

[quote name='jww968' date='Mar 8 2006, 05:11 PM']If the crank has not been machined, then standard size should work. If a bearing has spun before, then the crank would have been machined and oversized bearings used. The no. 2 bearing on my 924S seized at Barber, so the "spare" engine you sold me is a spare no more. I am replacing the rod bearings in it before I put it into the car.

[right][post="17099"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



John,



Sorry to hear about your engine. I was so busy driving and instructing that day that I never did get a chance to walk over to where you were parked. On the plus side, I think you'll find my old 924S motor to your liking.

Partial Post: Please Login or Register to read the full post.