[vliegwielolaf1234]

Did find a leak . the hose coming from the breather has a smal plastic valve in it half way, it did not seal .

It is the small plastic piece , put a bolt in there for now and wil order a new valve .

Seems to idle better , i am not 100% convinced that it is fixed but could not find any other leak .



Other picture is from my litlle pressure system , a inner tube from a motorcycle , cut in half and closed of with 2 clamps and some steal square tube , other end connected with the hoseclamp from the airfilter .

Gives you extra air and time to find the leak .

And in this case had one lying around so no $$ spend on this .



There was still air leaving the system . could not find it , it was at least no vacuum hose . where does the air go ?? engine has no leaks so it should all stay in .

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[flash]

it should leak out, but very slowly. from 5 lbs it takes my car about 3 minutes to leak down to 2 lbs.



you cannot use zip ties on the blow off hose or ICV hose. that will leak and cause off-idle issues. use the hose clamps provided.



also, you need to move the supercharger oil line to underneath the supercharger. you are currently heating the fluid by allowing contact to the head unit. it is supposed to run underneath the head unit, and be zip tied to the blow off hose.

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1366203776' post='141491']

it should leak out, but very slowly. from 5 lbs it takes my car about 3 minutes to leak down to 2 lbs.



you cannot use zip ties on the blow off hose or ICV hose. that will leak and cause off-idle issues. use the hose clamps provided.



also, you need to move the supercharger oil line to underneath the supercharger. you are currently heating the fluid by allowing contact to the head unit. it is supposed to run underneath the head unit, and be zip tied to the blow off hose.

[/quote]





Oke clamps installed , zip ties look nicer <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/whine.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> , i really do not see aproblem with them , but the metal clamps ar indeed tighter , who knows have to rule out everything .



The hose is running under de SC unit know , that was easy .



The hesitation seems less after the closing off the valve part in the breaher hose , hve to drive some more .



What is it for ? , looks like it has to vent positve pressure , but mine was leaking all the time , tried to clean it but did not work .

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

Oke Flash sit down !!!



I went thru the installation guide , and ..



On the page after the assembly off the BOV unit and hoses , install 3/4 and 5/8 hoses ,



Then !!! These fittings DO NOT need hos clamps .



Oke i did not put one on the BOV unit where it connects to the elbow , liked the clean look of the zip ties .





Kept all my stuff together , and went thru it to see if there where any clamps left , only 1 .

Guess i thought it was oke to use the zip ties for the rest that way .



I'll take her for a drive later today to see if it is cured .





If i misunderstood your manual <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> , than get me one in DUTCH . <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/cool.png" class="smilie" alt="" /> <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/tongue.png" class="smilie" alt="" />





I traced the little valve in the breather hose , it,s a 944 part , it does not show up on the 968 pet program , but only on the 944 type .

So not going to bother replacing it , but it might be worth checking if you have the valve in your hose it might be leaking as well , you should be able to find/see it between cilinder 2 and 3 inlet manifold it was faceing downwards in my case .

Case of getting thru their old stock i guess .

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[flash]

the blow of hose pic clearly shows the clamp.



as for not needing clamps on the others, that was just at the barbed fitting coupling point, not at the elbow. they need clamps at the elbow. look at the pic on the next page where it says "it should look like this". see the clamps?



you need a clamp on each hose. you can have a vacuum leak without them.

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[flash]

p.s. - if you don't believe me about needing a clamp, try disconnecting the ICV hose while the engine is running. it will die immediately. the breather hose also needs a clamp, as it goes directly to the air/oil separator, which has a vacuum line connected to it. open that to atmosphere and you create a leak.

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1366292920' post='141568']p.s. - if you don't believe me about needing a clamp, try disconnecting the ICV hose while the engine is running. it will die immediately. the breather hose also needs a clamp, as it goes directly to the air/oil separator, which has a vacuum line connected to it. open that to atmosphere and you create a leak.[/quote]



No worries . they all have clamps now .



And for now it seems fine . not sure what cured it . changed to many things .

But if it was a hose clamp . i should look at the pictures better .







ps What about the dutch translation ?



Or to busy ?



Really what could be more important .



Thanks again Flash

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[flash]

lol - no worries.



re: dutch - yeah - i'll get right on that. like you say "what could be more important?"



it's amazing how touchy this setup is when it comes to vacuum, but then i guess it makes sense. the system needs to be sealed for the MAF to read right.

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

Think the problem i had is solved , must have been the valve in the breather hose , and you cannot find that one unless you put pressure in the sytem .

My guess is that you will find this hose only on the early 968 , because pet does not show the valve in the 968 ??



After looking at the pictures of the install on my car , went around the hose clamps one more time to get the on nicely and square just for looks .

will buy some new so they all have the same looks and bling on them .



Changed the BOV back to it's original position (as instructed by Flash his manual ) , because of the leak i had i thought maybe it had someting to do with the bov makeing the noise , no it started it's trumpet kind of sound as before , left it like that for 2 days but just can't stand it , so put it on backwards again .



Have hoses sorted out nicely now so no more kink in the icv hose , so all is fine .

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[tamathumper]

Just to edify for future searchers, my car stayed pressurized for several minutes with this rig, so I guess I don't have any leaks. It lost a couple of pounds over about three minutes. The silicone sleeve is a 3"-to-2.5" and came from eBay with the clamps on it, the PVC adapter is 2" pipe to 3/4" threaded, then there is a 3/4"-to-1/2" reducer, then a 1/2" "close nipple" and a 1/2" ball valve, then finally an air hose quick-connect fitting. I used the pressure gauge on the other end of the hose to put 5 psi into the system, then closed the ball valve and listened for leaks.

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[flash]

how did you measure the pressure loss? i don't see a gauge between the valve and the MAF, which is where it needs to be.



side note: remove the big rubber gasket where the snorkel used to go. you're losing a lot of air entry there right now.

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[Lear35A]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1367846549' post='142361']



side note: remove the big rubber gasket where the snorkel used to go. you're losing a lot of air entry there right now.

[/quote]

Actually I was tempted to close that hole completely off. Do you know how many tools and fasteners get sucked down that thing? <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/laugh.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

(Didn't really do it.)

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[flash]

lol - been there done that. very annoying indeed. i have taken to laying a piece of cardboard in there when i am working on the car with the splitter installed.

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[tamathumper]

Funny you should mention it, I dropped a washer down there just after the picture was taken! !@#$



I wondered if I should take that thing off.

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

Well well i have the car running again , had to put a lot of time in to get it right again .

Drove the car to france for a vacation , it did preform well , had the belt and 1 ideler pully changed because there was no evidence of grease in it and it went bad , as a precaution changed the belt as well , it turned out to be a problem finding one in europe , finally i did and Flash send met 2 extra belts and a set of idler pully's so i have them for spair in case needed in the future .



Now the rest of the problems , drove the car to work 30min drive , all fine no problems , when i finshed work 4 in the morning i fired the car up and it started right up for maybe 5 sec and it died , that was it , after trying i could keep it running , keeping it above 2000rpm . and with a lot of sputter and gas smell from way to much fuel being sprayed in there managed to get it home .



First i suspected the icv , changed it with a new one lot's off $$ , and no change exept it would stay idle now but as soon as i thouched the throttle it would stall .



Then i went around to check all the sensor's first did not find anything bad except the hall sender plug came apart so decided tho get new HAll <acronym title='throttle position sensor'>TPS</acronym> and CPS .

So the problem could not be in one of those , also measured the value's at the dme computer to make so the problem could not be in the wires somwhere .





But no change in the behavior , then i changed the dme computer , i had one around because i had bought one to have the right one and tested for the SC buildt .

And it was running again , but it did not make me happy , there was a lot of hesitation especially in the higher revs , changed the <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym> for a good working used one and that finally did the trick , i have no clue what happend that the <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym> and dme coputer went bad both at the same time .





It did cost me about 1000$ but now it runs beter then ever .



Also i fiddeld around with the cam timing a bit , just to see what it does and this might be some thing other sc driver migth benefit from .



I marked the cam gear for reference and so i could put it back to where it was before .

First i advanced the cam's as far as they would go , that does not work , it actually started to make inlet noise(backfire kind of noise) and started hesitating when accelerating under 2500rpm , above that it ran fine .

It also seemed to run hotter when in slow traffic .



Then i started to retard the cam timing bit by bit , and it became better and better , i finally adjusted it a tiny bit late then where it was before and now the hesitation bit is completly gone in the low rev's , so if you have any problems with HESITATION under 2500 rpm you might want to check your cam timing .

I will drive it for i while because it runs really well now , and check the timing again with the dail gauge when i have time and feel like it .

I was pretty sure i had the timing nailed before but it might be an issue with the SC to have it spot on , wich would be the best no matter what offcourse .

The only question that remains is , am i spot on now ?



Vacuum is good , i did check again it wil take way over 10 min for the pressure to drop of completly .

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[flash]

forced induction does not like cam overlap like a naturally aspirated will



please tell me you put the correct chip in the new ECU

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

[quote name='flash' timestamp='1372258203' post='144949']

forced induction does not like cam overlap like a naturally aspirated will



please tell me you put the correct chip in the new ECU

[/quote]

Hee Flash , i know double dutch and so on , LOL



But Yeah i changed the chip before i put the other Computer in , it now has the one in there wich i send you before , glad i had on on the shelf

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

My troubles where not completly over , it started hesitating again .

So don't know if it has been the start of the problems from the beginning



The O2 sensor was due so replaced it , i think it was the original one wich came with the car , changing it was a different story , the threads of the old O2 sensor where completly destroyed(rusted) and i could not get the new sensor started , tried to restore the threads but no luck , so removed the old bung and welded a new one in .

One of those things , you think you will be done in 30min turns out to be the whole morning <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/mad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />

Then i hooked the car up to a computer and everything showed up fine exept for the for the <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym> , luckely found a used one and that one works fine .

I will send my old one in , apparantly they can repair them these days , i looked for a new one but found prices around 1500$ .



I am a happy camper now , i think finally the car is running as it should , no hickups and hesitation anymore , also the fuel consumption was more than it used to be but also a bit of a guess since all the changes with stage 2 and 3 .



Idle is very steady now , where before when cold it was dropping low but never stalling , this seems to be gone now .

So new <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym> , <acronym title='throttle position sensor'>TPS</acronym> cps hall , en O2 sensor , finally paid of , i hope this is the end of it , i am really done getting in the passenger footwell for measurements , the computer is way more easy to use and does it way faster , lucky i found one to use from a porsche speciallist , and next time i will get it when i have to hunt down an issue like this , it is way quicker and cuts down on the gues work .

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[tamathumper]

Didn't you just put a used <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym> in back in June?



When you say computer, do you mean you're using Durametric, Bosch hammer, or something else?

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[vliegwielolaf1234]

[quote name='tamathumper' timestamp='1373312377' post='145378']

Didn't you just put a used <acronym title='mass air flow'>MAF</acronym> in back in June?



When you say computer, do you mean you're using Durametric, Bosch hammer, or something else?

[/quote]

Yeah i did , but i took it out again it was bad as well , and returned it to the guy i bought it from , the other one came from the porsche speciallist wich also was willing to let me use it´s laptoptool , i do not know what sort off tool it was , but it was a small laptop with a porsche logo on it , so i think it might be a porsche original tool , it showed everything , with regards to temperatures etc etc , only thing where you still need some more time to find out the problem is when you have wiring broken , it would then only tell there is no in-output , and you have to check at the sensor en measure the wire to see if it is the problem , that is always time consuming to figure out .

But that did not happen fortunally .



And it all puzzeld me for a while but the car can run kind of oke when it is running on the backup program in the dme computer , and it fooled me a few times .

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