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My luck doesn't seem to be getting much better with my car.
The story so far -- the car had some cooling issues, so I pulled the cylinder head to find a "homemade" head gasket and unknown valves in the head. I've since bought all new valves, seals, and keepers.
Today, I took the cylinder head to the best machine shop in Chile, who did some measurements and found the measured thickness of the head is 146.5mm. The maximum wear limit for the head is 146.6mm according to the manual, and requires the use of the 1.4mm headgasket.
So, what are my options? Anyone know of someone selling a slightly thicker headgasket? Or that has a good cylinder head casting for relatively cheap?
-Matt
1993 Midnight Blue Porsche 968 Cabriolet (toy! Currently under restoration)
1995 Jeep Cherokee (war wagon, Zombie Apocalypse Response Vehicle)
2015 Mazda 3 (my reliable, nice car)
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I agree. An earlier post indicated that there are several gasket options to lower the CR, given how much the head has been shaved, a thicker gasket should get you back to close to stock. At least it sounds like there is a solution, so a new head is probably not a necessity as yet.
See the MLS Head Gasket thread. Flash has some great info in there!
1992 968 Cabriolet
Volvo S60 Turbo AWD
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2016 Cayman S
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94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic
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My fear is that the machine shop will have to shave a little more off the head to get it flat. 928 Motorsports offers a GCS headgasket that is almost 1.6mm, that seems like it should do the trick if all else is good. Any other dangers to having the head shaved .2mm below spec?
-Matt
1993 Midnight Blue Porsche 968 Cabriolet (toy! Currently under restoration)
1995 Jeep Cherokee (war wagon, Zombie Apocalypse Response Vehicle)
2015 Mazda 3 (my reliable, nice car)
(This post was last modified: 07-05-2014, 09:38 AM by
mbardeen.)
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I saw that, but I've also seen many comments that mention that the MLS gaskets need very specific surface prep to be used succesfully. My block is still in my car and I really didn't want to take it out, so any gasket that I use will have to seal not-so-great surfaces. Is the fine machining of the head something that's only really necessary in race/high-boost engines?
-Matt
1993 Midnight Blue Porsche 968 Cabriolet (toy! Currently under restoration)
1995 Jeep Cherokee (war wagon, Zombie Apocalypse Response Vehicle)
2015 Mazda 3 (my reliable, nice car)
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My cylinder head is finally on it's way back from the shop, but the surprises don't end. Evidently when boxing up the cylinder head, they noticed a crack on the retainer lip of the intake camshaft.
The shop manager recommends replacing the camshaft, even though it doesn't appear like the crack is very deep. My feeling is the same, but second/third opinions are welcome. The rest of the camshaft seems to be in good shape.
-Matt
1993 Midnight Blue Porsche 968 Cabriolet (toy! Currently under restoration)
1995 Jeep Cherokee (war wagon, Zombie Apocalypse Response Vehicle)
2015 Mazda 3 (my reliable, nice car)
(This post was last modified: 11-05-2014, 12:44 PM by
mbardeen.)
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Head was already 0.1mm below minimum height. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I'd assume that a 1.4 mm gasket on a shaved head will have a bit more compression than a 1.1mm gasket on a stock head. Regardless, I've made my mind up on the 1.65mm gasket that 928motorsports offers. I'd rather have slightly less compression than risk any interference.
Question now is regarding the crack in the camshaft retaining lip.. replace, repair, or run as is? Since I've got so much money tied up in this already, I feel like I should do it as right as possible -- so I lean toward replace.
-Matt
1993 Midnight Blue Porsche 968 Cabriolet (toy! Currently under restoration)
1995 Jeep Cherokee (war wagon, Zombie Apocalypse Response Vehicle)
2015 Mazda 3 (my reliable, nice car)
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On the question of the camshaft, yes, I would look at replacing that one or trying to have it fixed.
Current:
2016 Cayman S
Former:
94 968 Cab 6 Spd. Black/Cashmere D1R SC
86.5 928 Garnet Red Metallic