[sasilverbullet]

Changed my rotor and cap tonight trying to fix the 3-5 second rough running when started up cold problem. That didn't fix it. Thought you'd like to see the disgusting things I took out:



        [attachment=644:attachment

]





So I still have the cold starting runs rough problem.



Poll: Should I replace the spark plug wires, or have the injectors professionally cleaned? I don't have record of the wires being replaced since 95.

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[Greimann]

Great pics! Definitely time for replacement.



The cold start issue could be tied to the idle stabilization valve too which sometimes gets gunked up. Unless you are having issues with other aspects of the car running, I don't think that plug wires or injectior cleaning will solve it. It can't hurt, but cover the low ticket items first.



Try looking for any fault codes too. Also here is a trtoubleshooting guide table. A good starting point as to where to look.

968_troubleshooting_table.pdf Size: 681.1 KB  Downloads: 35

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[Eric_K]

I assume you've already changed the plugs. Old plugs could cause some rough running. I would at least check to see if you see any apparant problems with the wires or boots - cracking, chafing, etc. New parts never hurt - well except the pocketbook.



Eric

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[sasilverbullet]

Plugs were just done.



I am also having a problem where when cold, and running the A/C, the idle will dip down momentarily real low and then quickly come back up right after pushing the clutch in. It goes away after it's warm.



I'm running a tank of Techron thru it also.



Any hints?

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[sasilverbullet]

Forgot to mention that this "idle dipping down" problem started after I had put a new air filter in. I looked at the wire on the MAF, it seems clean.

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[Greimann]

To take another stab in the dark, the throttle position sensor may also be out of adjustment.

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[sasilverbullet]

Is the adjustment procedure somewhere I can access?

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[Greimann]

Try this link to Paragon's tech section.



http://www.tech-session.com/kb/index.php?p...ex_v2&id=45&c=4

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[sasilverbullet]

Thanks! I'll try that tonight. The description does sound like the TPS could be causing the problem.

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[bob blackwell]

Thanks Dave for the trouble shooting table, hope I do not need it any time soon. Good luck, Bob Blackwell.

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[NeedPorscheSpeed]

Michael,



My rotor looked about the same as yours! My cap didn't look too much better, either. Now if I could find the time to redo the belts (I'm a tooth off) and get that machine back on the road!

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[sasilverbullet]

Update - Checked the TPS - it has three pins, anyone what what ohm readings I should be getting on which pins?



The throttle cable was a little slack. I adjusted the slack out of it. It started right up and purred almost like a perfect kitten. I didn't tighten it so much that the throttle moved.



I think the "idle" circuit is not functioning perfectly. Is there such a thing?

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[rustech]

[quote name='sasilverbullet' date='Jun 9 2005, 07:53 PM']Update - Checked the TPS - it has three pins, anyone what what ohm readings I should be getting on which pins?



The throttle cable was a little slack.  I adjusted the slack out of it.  It started right up and purred almost like a perfect kitten.  I didn't tighten it so much that the throttle moved.



I think the "idle" circuit is not functioning perfectly.  Is there such a thing?

[right][post="5649"]<{POST_SNAPBACK}>[/post][/right][/quote]



IIRC, you're suppose to get 4.5v (not sure what resistance; ohms) at WOT. Not sure what pins.



The "Idle" circuit is what Dave was referring to: Idle stablizer, which is a dichromated looking motor (below TB) that increases and decreases air input to maintain a constant RPM as specified by the DME.

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[sasilverbullet]

This is soooo weird?!?!



I get in the car this morning, start her up, purrs like a kitten after just a tiny burble...then driving to work with AC on, the idle speed doesn't dip when I push the clutch in!



I'm thinking that when I pulled the TPC sensor connector off to check the pins, some corrosion was removed from the contacts.



Another factor is that I'm running a tank full of Techron along w/Chevron's premium gas.



I think the combination of these two has fixed the problem.



I'll report back later...

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[Cloud9...68]

[quote name='rustech' date='Jun 9 2005, 09:15 PM']IIRC, you're suppose to get 4.5v (not sure what resistance; ohms) at WOT.  Not sure what pins.[/quote]



You should get around 4.5V at WOT when you place a voltmeter (preferably an analog) between pins 1 and 3, which (obviously) are the outer two. Just peel back the insulation, and stuff the voltmeter leads into the connectors for these two outer pins. The most important thing is that the increase in voltage as the throttle is slowly pushed to the floor should be very steady, with no sudden "blips." I'm confident in this procedure, because my original TPS gave this voltage response, and then a member of 968.net graciously lent me his, and it behaved EXACTLY the same way. Good luck tracking down your problem; my car has a pronounced hesitation/loss of power at WOT (thus my check of my TPS). I've got the injectors on the way to Marren for cleaning, as I've ruled out a bunch of other things.



Andy N

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[sasilverbullet]

Update - It started dipping again on the way home from work.



I'll check the voltage on the TPS tomorrow and let ya'll know.



Thanks for the help so far...

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