[az968]

per specs, oil consumption can  be 1.5L / 1000 km = 1.58 qt / 621 miles.

 

So oil consumption is within tolerance..

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[Bulti]

It may improve when the piston rings are broken in. Do you use the correct oil viscosity?

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[flash]

i would not have broken it in with synthetic oil.  every race builder i know won't do that.  not exactly sure why, but they are adamant about it.

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[MCL968]

I have heard that too, not enough friction to seat the rings is what I have heard.

 

Do they still sell special break in oil? We used to run that in our race car after replacing the pistons/rings. It was British, so you can guess we went through a lot of that oil.

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[az968]

Amsoil still sells a 30 WT break-in oil. Dan, if you have synthetic oil in it you should consider changing to this for your first 1,000 miles.

 

http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/mo...-(sae-30)/

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[Bulti]

When done right, a bunch of horses could be added to the stable. But wat is right? You could read for days and days on the subject and still not know what are the do's and dont's.

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[ds968]

I already changed the oil two days ago at about 600 miles ( I think it was a synthetic 20-50 , if I remember correctly what he told me he used ) and put my Amsoil 20-50 mixed with Amsoil 10-40 , for the next 2000 miles when I will change it again .

I " lugged " the car up the hills where I live in hope of expanding those rings ..not sure if once or twice is enough to accomplish that or of I should keep doing it several more times. Or does it hurt the motor or transmission if you do that too often ? Thoughts ?

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[968Syncro]

What does it mean to have the piston rings broken in or seated?  Does that simply mean that material wears off of the cylinder wall and the ring itself to get a tight space between the two, or a better alignment between the surfaces?   Is there something more to it than this?  Is there also some "seating" between the ring and the piston, and if so what is specifically happening?  Or, this may be an old memory, is part of breaking in to develop a ridge at the top of the cylinder wall?

 

Also, here is a good overview of the engine break in process and issues and discusses break-in oils..  (at least it appears to be credible).

http://www.enginebuildermag.com/2014/10/...ube-needs/

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[flash]

the metal of the rings is designed to expand and consequently wear off anomalies, and thereby create a better seal.

 

not a bad article

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[ds968]

I just read various articles on engine rebuilds, all of which pointed to this : the ONLY way to determine if your rings are properly seated is via compression readings. They also suggested the rings can fully seat in just a matter of minutes simply with the engine idling , and in other cases it may take many miles of driving while switching continuously between low to high rpm . Does the first scenario sound plausible to you guys ?

The mechanic who rebuilt my engine had it idle for abut 30 minutes and then only drove it around the block for about five minutes . He then measured the compression and said the readings were absolutely perfect . So... am I to assume that the rings were likely already fully seated when I picked up the car ?!

As I said, I did drive carefully ( never going above 4 K rpm, but did drive it slow and fast and slow and fast again for a whole 500 miles ) and lugged it up hill several times just to make sure those rings expand, but if the compression was perfect to start with I'm not sure I made much of a difference ..

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[flash]

what was his measurement?  did he take it with the supercharger disconnected?  was it cold or hot?

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[ds968]

I didn't ask him . What would be the ideal way to measure that, I can ask my mechanic to do it at the next oil change

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[flash]

belt disconnected and engine cold.  should be around 200-210 after 6-8 rotations.

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[unknown4u]

Planning to call the shop tomorrow to check on where things stand. In the meantime, flash had to let more worms out of the can by trying to figure out what could have been the cause of the RPM staying near the redline for about two or three seconds without it shifting, or hesitating to drop the rpm immediately as I let off the gas pedal. And of course that worries me as well



. Happened only once before ( or I think it did, I was not paying too much attention to that aspect at the time, so did not give it any further thought ) So only twice in about two years, out of the countless times it's been taken to the redline ( it does that if you stomp on it while it's in D-4th at around 60 mph, because it drops all the way to 2nd gear ) but still...should that even happen at all ?! And flash even programmed it to a slightly lower redline but that's still a lot of " hanging " RPMs. Don't want to put words in Bob's mouth , but if I understood correctly he thought although bitj are very small probabilities, maybe the transmission valves were briefly stuck, or the tiptronic computer hesitated to retard the timing...so these couple of seconds at 6400 rpm might have just been the straw that broke the camel's back ? Thoughts from the collective wisdom ?

Old topic but has had the same today.


It seems that the tip is dirty inside.

Must have a cleaner for the atf and drain al the sludge out the tip. It seems that the solenoids do not like dirty oil.

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[unknown4u]

If it kicksdown the revs wil go high before the clutches wil hold the gear.
The solenoid or the block is dirty because it wil not close immidiatly. So pressure inside is not quick enough at the right pressure.

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