[johns_968]

I am looking to purchase a Battery Trickle charger and was hoping for some input.

Was looking at these to brands

http://www.amazon.com/Schumacher-SE-1-12S-..._pr_product_top

and

http://batterytender.com/automotive.html

Does anyone have any past experience with these or can recommend another?

thanks

John

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[mikeo]

I have used the Battery Tender version for several years with good results. A Junior is connected to the 968 and a Plus is connected to the track trailer.

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[Darryl]

John,

I've got the genuine, authentic, "real-deal" Porsche Tequipment charger. Of course, they cost more 'cause they say "PORSCHE", but it works well and plugs into the lighter socket which I find easier than popping the hood and fiddling with the battery terminal protective covers, etc, etc. I actually have two...one bought via a fellow Porsche enthusiast and the other via Craigslist, so I didn't have to pay full price for either one. I think Sunset has them for 106.00.

- Darryl

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[Kim]

I also have two of the Porsche Tequipment ones. I also like them. They need to be reset if the power goes off. And I find that 968 cigarette lighter sockets aren't that "grippy" and the plugs can fall out.

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[johns_968]

Thanks All,

I checked with the company and battery tender comes with a quick connect cable so you don't have to waste time connecting to battery terminals every time.

They also have an option for a quick connect cigarette lighter outlet. So I will probably order that. At $32.95 it sounds like a decent price and comes with a 5 yr warranty.

Appreciate the feedback.

John

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[DaveN]

I have a used 12VDC 300ma power brick attached to my battery. Keeps the battery at 13.5V and provides just enough juice to stop that pesky alarm/radio from draining the battery. Yea not elegant but cost = 0

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[gryphon]

Kim, what you need, and what I cannot find are cigarette lighter sleeves, often used on older German cars so I have heard. BEL who makes radar detectors used to sell them but no longer.

Tom

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[gryphon]

I have had very good luck wutH the Schumacher 2 amp chargers sold by Walmart for around $19 And they are plastic instead of metal (in contrast to the Battery Tenders) and don't scratch if accidentally placed on painted surfaces.

Tom

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[gbarrier]

I too agree that the system on these cars tend to suck some power out of the battry and need a little trickle if you don't care to drive it every week. I have however managed to stretch the time between use without a trickle charger. Seems like every 944 and 968 I owned tooled along with the voltage needle somewhere around 13 at best. They do wander. I was talkiing with a friend who runs an auto electric shop and he commented that a lot of of the european manufacturers using the bosch alternators used fairly low voltage regulators. We did a little looking and found a 14.8V regulator to fit my alternator. He said it was used on industrial equipment which needed to charge a large battery in a short time. I plugged one in my 968 and I liked the results. The needle sits at 14V all of the time. A also find that I can let the car sit for several weeks and it still starts just fine. Before over a week and it needed help. Guess it kind of depends on how well your battery was charged when you shut it down last. Sorry to hijack the thread but just had to share.

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[psuphoto]

My charging voltage with a cold engine is 13.5 V (ambient air temperature 80). once warmed up the charging voltage drops quickly to about 12.9 then 12.7. I figure as long as its stays about 12.67 I'm ok. Good to know the Porsche voltage is about 13.0v, not more like most other cars. Regardless, I bought a 1amp trickle charge with quick connect/disconnect. I like it better than the cigarette lighter, because I can see the connection. Charges automatically to 13.2 then will turn off until it hits 12.75. Battery will last longer, and is usually about 12.6-12.9 when cranking cold.

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[judge]

I used one of these CTEK batttery conditioners for the last 4 years and it kept my cars 8 year old battery in perfect shape. Car was often left for up to 3 weeks without being driven. I bought it off ebay for I can't recall how much but it was probably a 25% premium over the other mid-upper level stuff. I believe that they supply branded models for some topline car makers. The link below is to the Aus site but they are distributed worldwide.



http://www.ctekbatte...ctek-mxs50.html

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[ds968]

I've had very good results with the " Battery Tender " .

Gbarrier, where did you find that regulator and what brand is it ?

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[flash]

be very careful about "over-volting". there are some things that do not like that (like the ECU). some stereos are also known to get noisier when voltage goes up (pioneer is one of them).



i had a higher output regulator in there. i pulled it, as it was too close to doing damage, and i just didn't want to run the risk. i now run the OEM one.



there is an adjustable one out there (i think i still have one here), but it's a bugger to adjust

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[ds968]

yikes, good to know. in that case i'm leaving mine alone, i have not had any problems..ever..even though that damn meter reads barely above 12 when driving, and maybe at 13 when cold before starting. you'd think it would be the other way around since the alternator is charging when you're driving but i suppose with the radio, AC, etc.on, the drain is what's taking that voltage down <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/huh.png" class="smilie" alt="" />

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[psuphoto]

I ran some test leads from the battery through the door jam and fender into the cockpit. Then I use a "cheaP' DVM to accurately measure the voltage while driving (this is only a temporary set up until everything works. When the Porsche gauge says 12V, it's actually 12.4-12.7. A hair above 12v on the Porsche gauge is actually about 12.5-12.9. half way between 12 and 14 on the Porsche gauge is actually 13.5V. Your battery really needs to be maintained at a minimum of 12.6V. if you are charging at less then 12.6, you will be running your battery down, something lead acid batteries don't like. I would suspect 12 on your Porsche gauge is actually closer to 12.4-12-8 (if you are not having problems). By the way how soon does your gauge drop from 13 to 12? Can you tell if it is related to engine temperature. When my alternator hits 170-190 degrees, I see a charging drop from 13.5 to almost 12.5 (this is the point at which the temperature gauge is at 8oclock or greater. Thanks,

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[ds968]

[quote name='psuphoto' timestamp='1371855981' post='144717'] By the way how soon does your gauge drop from 13 to 12? Can you tell if it is related to engine temperature. When my alternator hits 170-190 degrees, I see a charging drop from 13.5 to almost 12.5 (this is the point at which the temperature gauge is at 8oclock or greater. Thanks,[/quote]



I'll pay attention to it next time and see how long it takes to drop, but as a side note ...how do you know what temps your alternator is generating ?!

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[MB968]

I use a Battery Tender Junior. It has a small transformer that plugs into an outlet like a phone charger. So, there is just a small wire that goes to the car. I use the plug on my ceiling for the garage door closer and let the wire hang down over the car. I have the mating wire permanently attached to the battery and tucked under where the windshield meets the hood. It's an easy pull out and plug in when I pull back into the garage.

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[psuphoto]

ds968 at various times, I stop and use the IR/laser Ryobi temperature guage. in the same time frame I'll look at the DVM and the water temp qauge on the Porsche. Using the IR/laser, I can shoot it directly onto two or three sides of the alternator.

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