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The ball joint replacement instructions at RS Barn include steps to install the new replacement boot, does that help?



http://rsbarn.com/docs/BallJointInstall.pdf

Well, that was a good idea (I should have thought of it), but unfortunately, the instruction for removing the ball joint boot, which is the first step of the procedure, says, "Remove ball joint boot." Can't beat it for brevity, but it falls a little short in the "how-to-do-it" department .



I seem to have fallen into the apparent abyss of all the different types of control arms/ball joints that were available on the 924/944/968's, some of which are rebuildable, some of which aren't. It's probably not nearly as confusing as it appears - I just need to do the research on it. My confusion comes from the fact that I'm pretty sure I've read that the 968's ball joints aren't replaceable, yet RS Barn' site shows not one, but four kits, and they're described as 968 kits. It's hard to tell from the instructions, but it looks to me like the ball joint shown in the instruction is a little different from mine, but I'm not sure.



Could somebody please clarify:



- Are 968 ball joints rebuildable/upgradable to the ones with 19 mm pins (stock are 17 mm)?

- If so, are all years', or just certain ones?

- If so, is this considered a viable alternative to buying new, upgraded control arms, e.g. the ones from Racers Edge or Fabcar, which come with the stouter 19 mm pins? It sure would be a lot cheaper, yet I can't remember anybody, particularly a racer, rebuilding/upgrading their ball joints.



Thanks

If the late 944 and the 968 are the same then this might be to your advantage. Would certanly ask before I ordered up a pair.



http://www.rennbay.com/balljoint.html

Yes, these are the same kits that RS Barn sells. I'd just like to confirm that the 968 ball joints are replaceable/upgradeable, and if this is considered a smart thing to do, as opposed to springing for the Racers Edge or Fabcar replacement arms.

I just received a replacement driver's side control arm, rebuilt, from Vertex Automotive. $175.



Now I just need to figure out how to mark everything so that I don't need an alignment after the install. Any tips from members who have done this would be appreciated. It goes on this weekend.



Cheers!



-Scott

Scott, it will be tough to get the castor adjuster transferred from one arm to the other without any difference, but I bet you could get close. Make sure the adjuster stays in the arm when removing the arm. Take the bolt off from in back of the castor block and not the one on the arm first. Try to make a reference mark on the adjuster that goes with a known section of the arm casting. You will figure it out when you see it I think. I am trying to remember this from when I had my "A" arms off.

i'd be willing to bet it won't happen. been there done that. the difference in the bushing alone will change things. the caster block is so touchy that the slightest movement will result in the car pulling

Ryan - thanks, dude. I'll do it that way and see what happens.



I have had some good luck with this stuff. When I replaced my original castor blocks with the Elephant Racing units, I did not need an alignment, and Flash said I should go buy a lottery ticket. Maybe I'll still be lucky like that.

we'll see. it may just have been that there was so much slop in your original bushings that it didn't matter. the tighter things get, the more it makes a difference.



let go of the wheel on a straight road and see if it goes straight. it should for at least 1/10 mile without any correction, and at least 1/4 mile without moving you more than a couple of feet either way.

[attachment=10045]



That's the original castor block -plenty of "slop" as you can see.

yeah - that's hammered

So....







I see that Rennbay sells the ball joint boot...but how can I tell if the ball joint itself needs replacing?





Oh, and where's the beef?





Already have the replacement castor blocks...

I take it there's not supposed to be enough free play in the ball joint for it to be able to clunk around freely? Ugh.



So...now I'm asking the same question as Cloud...can they be rebuilt (by me)? Or do I need to order some Vertex remans?



Also, please excuse the exxon valdez all over my castor block and control arm.

Well, after looking more closely, the whole ball joint is trashed. I ordered a rebuilt control arm from Eagle Day (with 40 month warranty, nice!). Also got a new set of tie-rod ends as a preventative measure since they're cheap and I only want to align the car once...