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I tried a thin wooden dowel, and no way. Too much stuff in the way. Maybe I'll try a coat hanger, but the pedal works very well now, so maybe I'll leave it alone.

I'm having this same problem now. I push the clutch down, it only comes back up halfway. I have to pull it the rest of the way with my foot. When it does that it "snaps" up sharply. I've adjusted the pedal ala Workshop Manual, and am pretty sure that it's the correct height. (FYI, Cloud: I used pieces of steel wire cut to the correct dimensions)



So I now need to figure out what's wrong. My rough order of troubleshooting will be:

1) Bleed the clutch.

2) Check to see if firewall is cracked/or moving. Any advice on how to do this?

3) Lubricate things - clutch fork maybe? What lubricant should I use?

4) See if I need to replace the slave cylinder - once again, advice on how to tell if this is bad?

5) Master cylinder

6) Replace clutch.



Anything to add or general advice on any of this?

carefully inspect the high pressure line. while somebody is pushing on the pedal, look closely at the line, particularly where the the crimped connector at the hard like meets the rubber. the hose is known to swell there just before it blows, and create exactly this symptom

I think I've narrowed down my clutch pedal problem. I have a sneaking suspicion that when I remove the slave cylinder, it's going to be a 944 slave cylinder (944.116.237.00) and not a 968 one (944.116.237.02).



I checked the hose -- no bulges that I could see. I checked the firewall flex -- it looks like someone's been in there already to fix that, as there's a patch welded in there. It looks reasonably well done. However, I can't get the hose on the slave cylinder to bleed it as the nipple is too far back and touching the body. Comparing the part pictures of the two slave cylinders over on the Paragon, mine looks more like the 944 one (bleed nipple sticks straight back, not out at an angle).



I'll order a new slave cylinder and go from there.

I just replaced my Master, Slave and all the lines in between. I was suffering from the same problem, pedal would get stuck, and I would have to pull it back into place. I followed the shop manual and set A at the 147mm from the firewall mount to the center of the pivot pin, and for some reason my clutch feels sloppy now. When I was down under the console, I wheeled out that pivot block a few turns since I couldn't get the pin into place. I noticed there's a sensor that the pedal needs to butt up against, and when I connected the assembly at the 147mm, it was hanging off the sensor about 3-4mm. So that's why i wheeled the block out.



I used the Powermotive bleeder on the system. The clutch works fine, but I have like 1-1/2 inches of dead space. Could me wheeling out that pivot block 2-3 full revolutions cause the lack of engagement. Before I would only have to push the clutch in like 2-3 inches for anything to engage. Could there still be air in the line? I bled the system twice already and it's the same.



Thanks,

Rene

Final got around to replacing my slave cylinder today. Whatever was on there wasn't OEM, and probably wasn't even a part for a porsche. I now have proper clutch pedal return and much better engagement.

I'm just boosting this thread to save me searching again. My cruise control has become intermittent in that it sometimes doesn't engage, and the clutch pedal has just started failing to return on occasions ..... I'm hoping it is the return assist spring which is not pushing the pedal fully back and hence not pushing up against the cruise switch ......

 

astroede et al, if you're still around thanks for those 2012 posts.  I sense that the pedal should fully return and that if there's an inch or two of dead space then that will tell my which way to adjust the spring nut ..... test petal play , adjust nut , test pedal play again .... repeat until the clutch pedal comes right back to the top.

Fingers crossed that it is nothing more complex needing parts replacement.

IIRC, one possible cause of a funky cruse control is some of the brake lights being burned out.

 

Bill

The pedal is pushed back by the fluid if you check the manual there are two measurements you have to set on the pedal, I used two cut to length kebab sticks as you wont get a measure in there



The usual cause of a non return pedal is the slave cylinder