I know this has been discussed, but I don't remember seeing any solutions, so I thought I'd start a thread specific to the topic of getting a D1R splitter-equipped 968 into one's driveway without destroyinhg said splitter. I took my car on its maiden voyage yesterday to get the roll bar installed and to get the ride height/corner balance/alingment done (man is it stiff! No surprise, though...), and the difficulty in getting it out of the driveway was even greater than I had imagined. So, since there have been so many of these splitters installed, I was wondering if anyone has come up with a solution (preferably DIY) for this problem.
Griots Garage sells this driveway bridge:
http://www.griotsgarage.com/product/curb...PAodaSYAQg
but I worry that the city may frown on this, as it could be perceived to block run-off water flow, even though it has channels built into it. It's also quite expensive, and I'd be worried that someone, either a city official, or a vandal, will walk off with it, despite its hefty weight.
I could envision something like attaching a piece of metal conduit that's the diameter of the depth of the dip in the gutter to a piece of plywood, but I'd have to carry this in the car, and get out to put it in place each time I drive home. Something of a pain, but I can't think of anything better offhand, so I'd be interested in what solutions the brilliant minds on this forum may have come up with. Thanks.
Yes, I've seen that, but I'm not convinced that's the best solution, for the reason I stated in my original post, and they're really pricey...
i'm working on the delrin skid plates for my splitter. template done. i just haven't had a minute to get them made.
Cloud I can't get over how non chalant you are that YOUR CAR IS BACK ON THE ROAD! I think some congratulations are in order over this huge feat / small miracle!
My car has been down now for only about four months, but it feels like forever.
Thanks - yes, I know I was a bit anticlimactic with my first post after the car's maiden voyage, but I wanted to get the question about the lowness of the splitter out there, because I'm afraid I'm not going to be able to get it back in my driveway and into my garage! This has been by far the most ambitious thing I've ever done (besides raising two daughters!) - For a guy who hadn't done anything more complicated than a belt job in the last 30 years to practically single-handedly (although with A TON of advice from the knowlegdeable people on this forum and elsewhere) build a race car is borderline insane, and the fact that nothing major seems to be wrong (although there are several glitches that will need attending to) is nothing short of a miracle.
The real test will be getting it out on the track once the ride height setting, alignment, and corner balance are done. My impressions from my brief drive to the shop are that the driveline feels wonderful, thanks I'm sure to the new clutch, shifts are much smoother and more precise than before. It's no harder to launch with the 18-lb flywheel than with the <acronym title='dual mass flywheel'>DMF</acronym>, and the engine seem to rev much more freely than before, probably thanks to the flywheel and the lighter pistons and rods. It of course has the vibration at 2200 rpm, but I didn't find it to be too objectionable. But make no mistake - the car is now very raw - I can feel every bump and divot in the road, as though I'm being dragged behind another car riding in one of those aluminum saucers kids use to slide down snow embankments. But that was the idea going in, and the enhanced feedback should be a big asset on the track.
Cloud, you might not like this answer, but I have found I need to think where I may be driving to avoid whacking my splitter. Can't get in my parents driveway any more and have a small gully in the beginning of my street that needs to be crawled over. May have to fix my own road. It's not nearly as bad as it sounds but never had to think before driving. But I sure like the splitter!
Cloud,
Just approach it at a very acute angle and place the side of the nose over the curb. The wheel will the rise enough that the centre section will not touch.
Other alternative (messy but permanent) is a diamond grinding disc and grind down the higher concrete to smooth out the bump (lots of dust).
If you want to use the gutter guard, drill some holes in it and dyna-bolt it into the concrete - that will make stealing it difficult. I have seen 6mm steel plate span the drain (once again, bolted in) but we tend to be slightly (only slightly) less litigious over here (don't want someone suing you claiming that they didn't see it and injured themselves, or little johnny suffered trauma because his Matchbox car is under it).
You cou,d form some small directional channels in concrete in the drain to raise it a little bit.
man sure is a lot of work to drive a car! lol
After the first spine curdling scrape it didn't take me long to learn how to attack almost every driveway at 30 degrees or more. It is surprising how you can avoid what looks to be a sure scraper by just getting the angle right.
Flash, I don't want some wimpy Delrin skid plates. I want whatever the F1 guys put on the bottom to get that impressive shower of sparks when I bottom my splitter out.
And I too compliment and congratulate Cloud for getting his car on the road. Good work!!!
I blanked and missed that you were on the road. Congrats!!!!
Thanks. Yes, it's mobile, but there are a few things I still need to attend to, including
- The ABS light has come on, which I assume is what's triggering the big red "!" in the center of the dash. Strange, since, other than removing the front calipers and leaving them on 2 x 4's on the floor for two years, I never touched the brakes
- The power steering doesn't work. Although, after that nightmare of a rebuild of the steering rack (still the hardest thing I've ever done on this car), the fact that it isn't working is about as surprising as the news that Whitney Houston had died. I expected it to leak like a sieve, which it thankfully and miraculously doesn't, but neither does it provide any assist. Not sure where to begin on this one, as there's nothing on earth that would convince me to crack that beast open again. So, it's either live with it, or buy a rebuilt rack. It really isn't that bad once the car is moving.
- I need to figure out what to do with the seat belts, as described in another thread.
- There's a faint but noticeable smell of burning plastic of unknown origin.
Other than that, all seems to be well, which is really pretty amazing considering much of the car was in boxes stacked in this rank amateur's room not so long ago...
I was going to install my splitter before Paso but I think I may hold off till when I get back. Don't want any extra worries along the way...
Dare to be different. It's all about the look!
Never fear Jake , I will be splitter free as well.
Mine is prepared for paint and I won't be putting it on until after I get back and have my front end respray.
I am also thinking that after the drive to and back from Paso, the front end may need a re-spray, along with the rocker panels.
lol - pretty sure i'm running my bra
knowing what i tend to do to the splitters from driving, i actually have 2 of them. that way i can swap it out while one is getting resprayed.
What is it with the Canadian contingent and resprays after the Paso trip? We do have paved roads here guys <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rock.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> And I'm reasonably sure that our driving route for Saturday won't include the road from a few years ago where we had to wade a stream with the cars and Flash tested the material integrity of the front splitter.
They really do make high speed driving a pleasure, no cross wind wander and the front stays planted.
lol - the route is much better.