Yeah, and the problem is with the " P " in TPS ; over on your side of the pond the position of everything ( steering wheel, etc.,) is wonky , so the sensor is probably is also on the wring side of the throttle body and I'd have to install it backwards or upside down .. no wait , the upside down mounting would be an Australian TPS - Kidding aside, flash has a spare TPS, if that's what turns out to be the issue .. My friend only has about one day out of the week when he can get around to working on my car, so this whole trouble shooting process takes a very long time , but the TPS check is the first thing on the agenda now.
And now , ( just my luck...) it turned out that the the TPS is also OK. The wiring leading to it, as well as the wiring to every other sensor has been checked and tested OK. One more comprehensive Duramatric reading today, hunting for a possible small vacuum leak somewhere that can't be easily seen , and was maybe one which is not being picked up by any fault codes test, but if that's not it I'm told the ONLY other possibility left at this point is the DME itself ( not the DME relay ) . To test that however, my mechanic has to find another tiptronic DME to switch mine with , because a six speed DME will not work for that purpose .
Anybody interested in a free 968 ?! I'll consider even paying for the effort of taking it away from my line of sight at this point . Hey, it's supercharged and runs like a dream ...soon as you manage to start it and let it idle / stumble for five minutes. Lol, wait .. maybe all I have to do is start it five minutes later in the mornings .. :--) :-)
do me a favor - check the wires that go from the OEM harness to the MAF. those are crimp connectors where it got spliced for the supercharger. maybe they got messed with?
You might be interested to know the the motronic DME is the same in the tip and the 6 speed according to PET
The TPS is also Bosch
0 280 122 004
Search for that number on eBay because a genuine Porsche one is $250
Item Number 151212856628
Quote:do me a favor - check the wires that go from the OEM harness to the MAF. those are crimp connectors where it got spliced for the supercharger. maybe they got messed with
That would have made sense considering the entire engine was out, all the wiring disconnected and connected again in the process, so if anything was even close to not making a perfect contact, it could have been disturbed sufficiently to eventually get loose. But he just checked that about an hour ago and it also tested ok.
Quote:You might be interested to know the the motronic DME is the same in the tip and the 6 speed according to PET
Right, I think however that he's referring to the secondary ECU / "computer " only in Tips, and which synchs with the main DME ...
The Durametric indicates everything is working perfectly . Right .. it's clearly not woking anyway near perfectly .. So much for that diagnostic marvel !
well, that further points to the tip computer then, which does not show up on the durametric
Yeah, we'll switch the " tip computer " with one from another 968 tip across the bay from us , and test that possibility ( or, probability ...as things stand now ..)
And we're back full circle to the ICV sticking on cold starts as the suspect , even though the computer shows nothing wrong with it or anything else . Ugh, getting access to that thing ( without taking the engine out of the car, lol ..) will be a chore ...
i don't know why you think that. it's really pretty danged easy. once i figured out that i didn't have to mess with the mounting screws, and only loosen the main clamp so it could slide around, that gave me access to the hose clamps. once i popped those things, it came right out. i think i spent an hour figuring it out, and 10 minutes removing the danged thing.
I'll just have to convince the guy that's doing the job that's all there is to it, he's the one who seems highly skeptical . He must be getting some " vibes " from my former mechanic, lol. But considerijg the experiences I've had witnessing with my own eyes the entire time as he was struggling to access something or another or trying ito work it loose because it was either seized or rusted or whatnot, more likely than not anything on these cars that otherwise SHOULD take 15 minutes, turns itno hours and hours of an ordeal . Maybe we'll get lucky with this one though.. remains to be seen.
The icv from a 2.0 litre Hyundai Lantra works fine by the way and is about $40
i would tend to doubt that, at least on a supercharged engine. the OEM unit is barely big enough for the 968 when supercharged. it it is at all gummed up, it doesn't let enough air in and the engine stalls on full decel. i never got around to testing it, but i think the 928 unit would work better. it would provide a bit more air on decel.
Aha, interesting comment about the stall on deceleration.
my supercharged car does that from time to time. Is it possible to clean a gummed up ICV?
( by the way, I also from time to time get the check engine light with a blink code, 1131 if i recall, for knock sensor. Could that be related to an ICV issue?)
thanks
that code would not be related to the ICV. you would be going rich if the ICV was faulty, and that code should only happen if you are lean. what are you doing when you get the warning light for that blink code? (rpm, throttle position, etc) what fuel are you running?
Last time got blink code at highway speed @ 70 mph, about 5-10 min after starting the car on a cool morning end of June.
I only run premium fuel, mostly 91 no ethanol, sometimes 93 ethanol.
probably a faulty connection, or failing sensor. the second digit being a "1" indicates "intermittent". steady state 70mph should never pop a knock sensor, especially on a cool day.