<img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/blink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" /> Anyone know about where on our temp guages a standard factory thermostat should be opening?
When it's 105 and your running your A/C and driving hard, does your temp gauge go up near the upper white mark?
Thanks in advance... <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/rolleyes.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
Can't answer the first question. Re the second one - the highest I've ever seen my temp gauge needle is slightly about the 9:00 position (maybe the equivalent of 9:30), but never near the upper white mark.
the average is about 8:30 - some read a touch higher, but most of them are pretty solid and consistent
the end of the lower fat bar is 60 degrees C or 140 degrees F
the first white line (8 o'clock) is 80 degrees C or 176 degrees F
the second white line (10 o'clock) is 100 degrees C or 212 degrees F
the beginning of the red is 115 degrees C or 239 degrees F
Regarding the second question, normal behavior is for the fans to kick on high just as the needle hits the top 10 oclock white mark which will cool the engine down close to the bottom mark. This cycle will repeat.
If AC is on the fans will be on full and even with the temp over 100F in Arkansas I do not see the gauge go far beyond 9:30.
If the gauge ever goes over the 10 oclock line something is wrong.
104* recently in Sacramento and with the air on it never went over the 9:00 position. I have ordered the VW fan switch so that may help a little to keep it at 8:30 all the time.
Silver BLT
90 plus on my way back from vista today (photoshoot at hre) - sat at 8 o'clock the whole way - sat in traffic for 20 minutes at 80 - same thing
oil temp solid at 205
Thanks for all the inputs - the guys at the shop think my thermostat may be opening late - does that sound about right? (the fans come on fine, and there is no leaks in the cooling system, 5 month old water pump)
They didn't put a new thermostat in January when they did the water pump <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/sad.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
Rereading your posts I would try changing the thermostat. I would buy one for $20, then hit autozone for $15 of antifreeze, a heavy duty set of circlip pliers as well as borrowing a radiator pressure tester then change it myself.
This should take care of most of the possible problems (coolant, bubbles in cooland and thermostat) in one hit and cost you $50 and a Saturday morning. Instructions are online at
http://clarks-garage.com/shop-manual/cool-08.htm . The cirlcip is a real pain without the heavy duty tools but otherwise it is a pretty easy change.
Yup, I've changed one before, I know the drill!
I think I'll tackle it this weekend...
first, i would make sure the system is bled fully
then, i would use a thermometer (grab one from the wife's kitchen if you have to)and test the temp of the water
then, check to see that your fans come on at about 9 o'clock at low speed, and then kick on on high speed at 10 - both fans should operate
there is also a test for the switch - it's in another thread - if you can't find it, let me know and i'll dig it up - it consists of jumping power from one pin to another to make sure your fans are all working
then, lastly, if everything checks out, deal with the thermostat
if you do this, make sure you use phosphate free antifreeze and distilled water