Threw my alternator etc. belt today. Actually kind of a funny timing thing.
I was on the way home from closing the deal on a new Toyota FJ Cruiser, was Missy Porsche jealous?
First, is it normal for the antilock brake (!) error light to show with no alternator?
2nd, What kind of job is replacing the belt? I checked the DIY library here, didn't see it.
The "!" light is used for several circuit that are monitored - perhaps we should call the "central Idiot Light" (CIL)[?] <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/wink.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
The alternator belt is a straight forward repair. Just drop the panel below the engine, loosen the tension adjuster and install the new belt.
Thanks, I'll order the belt right now.
I knew about the general warning ! light. The detail was the antilock brake light and I wanted to know if that was likely caused by the belt and following 0 output from the alternator or do I have a separate issue?
Check to make sure that all pulleys are aligned. I lost my alternator belt at the track this weekend due to a bolt gauling from vibration? The loose bolt allowed the alternator to twist and change the alignment. Of course, mine is slightly different since I have the AC delete bracket.
When you remove the belt, make sure to loosen both bolts (front & back) on the compressor. I assume it is the same as a 944.
-Bart
[quote name='Beachboy' date='May 30 2006, 04:27 PM']The detail was the antilock brake light and I wanted to know if that was likely caused by the belt and following 0 output from the alternator or do I have a separate issue?
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I wouldn't think so, power is still fed from the battery whether the alternator is online or not. Let us know what happens once the belt is installed...
What caused your belt to fail? You need to take a close look at your AC compressor and alternator pulleys. My AC compressor pulley seized, causing the belt to snap. The AC belt is very tough, and should not fail without some sort of root cause. Did you hear or smell anything when the belt failed? Good luck.
I'm pretty sure that although I was careful with the timing belt replacement and adjustment at 60K miles I should have replaced the alternator belt. It may even be the original. It's cracked and shot. I did get the burned rubber smell before it went so I may have a locked up A/C compressor, hope not.
I ordered the belt but will probably send it to the shop, too busy to spend time under the car right now.
I think I'll have the power steering belt replaced while they're in there. I think it needs to come off anyway.
Any other routine stuff I should do while its in the shop at 80K miles?
replace the the plastic heater control valve
re-mount the four way flasher switch which is swimming inside the dash
flush the cooling system
The first notice you will have of an alternator failure (other than a falling voltage gauge) is the ! light and ABS lights coming on. When I've either lost the belt or the alternator on the track (2 or 3 times now) that is the common failure method. Once you get below about 10.3 volts you will start to lose some engine power as the injectors are not receiving enough power to run at their full duty cycle. Below 10 and the car will shut off completely as the DME requires 10 to function.
So, don't worry about an ABS problem - just have the belt replaced. However, I would suspect an alignment issue unless the belt was truly ancient...
Beachboy,
Add to the list;
Fix leaking power steering hose passenger side.
Check Motor Mounts and Castor Blocks (Rubber in the blocks will be disintegrated).
Check Clutch Inspection Port, lubricate the fork and replace the almost definitely missing plug.
I'm sure there's more, but these seem to need to be replaced on every single car.
Regards,
Jay
Thanks guys. The excellent folks at European Performance Engineering in Natick, MA took care of the problem, no sweat. Just the belt and caught a PS leak you mentioned. I had ordered the belt from Performance Jerry does a terific job with my car.