Does anyone have a car lift in their garage? If so what kind is it and how do you like it? I am having the ceiling in my garage cut out and raised to accomodate a lift. I want to be able to store 3 cars inside and this is a less expensive option than adding a garage. I need to be able to park my SUV under the car on the lift. Looking at a lift by American Lifts SS7000XLT. Any other input would be appreciated.
i'm wresting with this one myself right now
there are a LOT of options out there - there is even a below ground lift that drops a car in to a "cave"
for storage of 3 cars, you have a couple of decisions to make:
working lift or storage lift?
2 post - straight or offset?
foor rail or overhead beam?
lift height?
4 post
lift height?
there are some lifts for lower ceilings
realize that all of them need to be bolted into concrete that is up to the task - you will need to know the thickness of your concrete - you will also need to know if it is a tension slab
google away and good luck
Flash beat me to it about the footings.
What is the condition of you garage/slab? If it is fairly new and well constructed, is SHOULD be a 4" thick slab.
A 4 post lift should pose no problem if you can verify that the slab is 4"+ thick and the lift itself isn't extremely heavy.
A 2 post (especially an offset) will definitely require new footings. This isn't a huge deal, but you would have to cut into the slab, excavate, and then pour footings. Probably not what you are looking for w/ an existing garage.
What others have said about the footing is very important.
A 4 post is easier to park with, just drive up the lift. You can remove wheels with one, but you'll need additional jack(s) and/or bridge to jack up the car while on the lift to remove the wheels. Also storing a car on its wheels is better than on a 2 post, especially a cab. A 2 post lift is better for working, but takes a lot longer to make sure the car is lifted properly and requires being on your hands/knees/stomach/back. Also get 220 if you can. 110 volt lifts are OK, but are noisy and slow.
This is not a lift you can use for storage, but you don't have to bolt it down an it is fine for 8' ceilings. It rolls around for ease .
that is likely what i am going to have to do - a few questions:
which one is that?
how is the clearance vertically? my car is pretty low
what interferences do you have in the middle of the car? for example, how much would it be a problem if you had to drop the exhaust or the torque tube?
how tough is it to roll around?
does it mar up the floor as it goes up and down?
i like that it does not move as it goes up and down - that one goes in the "good" stack - thanks
Flash, it is a Bend-Pak unit.
www.asedeals.com Unit has large metal wheels on the end that moves on the floor. No marks on my bare cement floor, but I don't know about painted floors. Unit is heavy to move, but not impossible. Comes with different spacers so you could get better clearence between the lift and the bottom of car. I use 2x10s on the sides of the lift to make sure I dont have clearance problems when pulling over unit. 4.75" is lowered height/max is 48"w/no spacer.
for the storage lifts, you may need to change the type of garage door lifting system (if you have one) to the type that attaches to the top of the door rather than the type that hangs in the middle of the ceiling.
completely changing garage doors anyway, and lifting the top of the opening about a foot, as well as at least widening one of the doors (lucky for me the header is well above there)
thanks guys - just about to pull the trigger on one of these