I was not too impressed with the stopping power of the standard front brakes so I bought a set of Zimmerman drilled rotors in black(because black stops faster!), a set of porterfield R4S pads and Rotora lines for the fronts. I probably only needed pads but.....while everything is off....
will post pics....
[quote name='xrad' post='57189' date='Aug 2 2008, 12:05 PM']I was not too impressed with the stopping power of the standard front brakes so I bought a set of Zimmerman drilled rotors in black(because black stops faster!), a set of porterfield R4S pads and Rotora lines for the fronts. I probably only needed pads but.....while everything is off....
will post pics....[/quote]
I am anxious to see the pics...
Joe
Big reds and the proportioning valve from a 928 would help.
Properly functioning front brakes should be more than adequate for any driving other than serious tracking. It would seem that something else is going on.
[quote name='xrad' post='57189' date='Aug 2 2008, 09:05 AM']I was not too impressed with the stopping power of the standard front brakes so I bought a set of Zimmerman drilled rotors in black(because black stops faster!), a set of porterfield R4S pads and Rotora lines for the fronts. I probably only needed pads but.....while everything is off....
will post pics....[/quote]
xrad,
I am running zinc plated Zimmerman rotors that are CNC slotted and drilled. I have the same Porterfields with stainless lines.
When I first drove the car after everything was installed, the pads are very slick and need to be bedded.
After that they are great. The pads leave little or no dust. The do have a growl when braking, unlike the oem which were silent.
Oh yeah, they stop better and look cooler.
Brian
[
attachment=5198]
[quote name='xrad' post='57189' date='Aug 2 2008, 09:05 AM']I was not too impressed with the stopping power of the standard front brakes so I bought a set of Zimmerman drilled rotors in black(because black stops faster!), a set of porterfield R4S pads and Rotora lines for the fronts. I probably only needed pads but.....while everything is off....
will post pics....[/quote]
xrad,
I am running zinc plated Zimmerman rotors that are CNC slotted and drilled. I have the same Porterfields with stainless lines.
When I first drove the car after everything was installed, the pads are very slick and need to be bedded.
After that they are great. The pads leave little or no dust. The do have a growl when braking, unlike the oem which were silent.
Oh yeah, they stop better and look cooler.
Brian
[
attachment=5198]
Looks Aewsome!!!
How much was everything and were did you get them.
Thanks
I'm running the R4S porterfield and am not impressed with them at all. When these wear out I'll switch to the R4 compound for street and autox. Have these(tried both compounds) on my 72 911 and love them!!!!! Even on the street though alot dissagree.
Kevin
anchorman: after cruising around, when i press the break without riding the downshift, it is just not the braking experience i am looking for. My 530i M option brakes have a much better feel and , although it sounds like something grinding, they stop the car really well.
I think the biggest change will be the pads and I had a tough time choosing a set. a few friends recommended the r4s pads due to low dust and great stopping power when hot (not race hot)..just like silvy says. when I have changed to more aggressive pads in the past, I usually changed rotors too. For stock discs, powerstop rotors (brembo), have always been fine. But Zimmerman, were cheaper and allegedly just as good or better.
Kwikt/968rz:I wanted a good cof but I did not want the fronts too aggressive like pagid orange or hawk blue. I am not quite ready for the valve or big reds...wife wants new kitchen table.
I bought my rotors from a company which does the drilling and painting themselves, I only got cross drilling , no slots.
Silvy: what kind of break in if any did you do? Glad to hear that someone else has this combo.
Blue:
rotors:
http://www.performancerotors.com/catalog/p...ba780a92cdb6473
don't forget to choose color and drilling
pads:
http://www.frsport.com/Porterfield-R4S-AP3...968_p_7453.html
lines:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/performanc...kes/Brake_Lines
Thanks Joe, Not my pic, though I will take the credit! <img src="/forum/images/smilies/968/biggrin.gif" class="smilie" alt="" />
i have the zimmerman/poerterfield combo, and love them - i'm not super happy with the rotors, just because they are so soft and wear quickly, but they are doing it evenly, and not causing any problems
break in procedure is found on the stop tech site
Xrad, my only point was that, properly set up, the stock brakes are more than capable of supplying all necessary stopping power. Properly set up, though, is the key. If the lines are soft, or the pads are wrong, or the rotors or pads are glazed, or the calipers are in need of being rebuilt, those are all things that will diminish the capability - and should be addressed.
Anchoman: do you mean stock brakes with stock tires? My tires are kinda wide....maybe adding more work for the brakes...although car weight is the same. I have jammed on them a few times and, although the pads are thick, not what I expect in terms of stopping power. You are probably right about the glazing ( and lines and pads look new all around)...and who knows, PO might have put some cheap pads on the car....he did not strike me as someone who really knew about the finer details of the automobile.
you could have a couple of things conributing to an inadequate brake feel and ability
wheel and tire weight play a HUGE part here - the weight increase there is 4 times the effect of elsewhere on the car -bigger tires weigh more - many wheels weigh more
pads not being broken in correctly will result in them never being able to stop as well as they could - it is a chemical process that cannot be reversed
you'll be happy with the setup you got though
last night I drove a 968 with zimmerman drilled/slotted rotors and I think ''sport '' pads with about 9000? miles on them. Although there were stock suspension components and tire sizes, the braking was much better. Can't wait to get the parts!
and his transaxle shifted much more smoothly.
pads and rotors...easy job once you figure out how the pad retianing clip comes out. Sensors shot so ordered 4 new ones (13$ each)...not a bad price at all. Measured rotor thickness and it was at the minimum 26mm all around with groves that went deeper. Seems that these were probably the original rotors, but PO's just added new pads as the pads were nearly brand new all around (OEM knockoffs, however)
received rotos today. even though I asked for extra padding/boxing for shipment, this was not done and the rotors came with the paint chipped off. Seller said he would refund the cost of paint. Also, holes chamfer cut rather than radius cut as the add states. Other than that, fit perfectly. And of course they 'look' good.
so I go to put on the rotors today and damn it! both drilled in same direction!!!!! MF****er
so now I have politley asked for another rotor for the driver side. Owner was good about refunding me for the damaged paint job. Let's see how they respond to this new episode.
my 'big' yellows.... at least this side looks good. By the way, forget trying to mount the wear sensors on these aftermarket pads. After cracking two pairs of them, I gave up. I cut the sensor wires just beyond the plug. Looks like they only sense 'ground' by the rotor wearing into the plastic wire housing mounted on the pad...so cutting the wire short at the main plug does nothing. I will just have to check the pads the old fashioned way......
OK. here is my pic of the day....does anything ever work out????
needless to say, rotora lines going back to vendor. Anybody else know where to get quality braided lines?