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In need of a alternative to LEDA for suspension. Some of you seem to run Moton. What are your thoughts of these?



//T

I'm running Moton Clubsports. They work great. The car seems much more settled and they are relatively affordable when compared to their higher end race $hocks.

Hello Erik!



I saw that you used the Moton club sports on your website. Somewhere I think I also read that you had increased springrates but could not find the numbers. Curious :-)



2nd quesion is regarding rebuild/replacement time. The LEDAs can be rebuilt which is a plus, the downside is that the recommended rebuild is atleast once per season (on their website they even recommend several times a year for the serious racer). This maybee a silly question but with the really stiff springrates on race cars and smooth tracks is the life for a race shockabsorber really that much tougher than on the street?



Happy 2009!



//TL

I'm running 700 front / 900 rear (no torsion bars).



They are rebuildable. Many Moton dealers are trained in doing it. After my recent accident I sent a strut to Moton's USA headquarters and they returned it rebuilt in a week. I don't know what the recommended rebuild interval is, but they are pretty durable.



Eric

I'm also running the Moton Club sport model...



My spring rate is not as aggressive as Eric's is...with my combo being 650/750.



I actually wonder, at times, if my car is too stiff at times...I'm also a bit lighter than stock. My car weighs in at 2,850.



On the other hand, maybe my shocks are set too stiff...something to play with this coming season. I should really play around with them.



Jason

Hi guys,

Reviving this thread for some help. I need to get roll cage mounting brackets for the Moton Clubs Sports canisters. Also considering relocating the front canisters from the engine compartment to the inside so I will also need longer lines. I have searched up and down and have been unable to find any listings.

Any known supplier of Moton accessories?

This is as good as I have found on the bracket side... http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tpc=Remo...;action=product

Cable Ties work well......

I'd also be interested in the longer line option. I suspect that you will get your quickest answer from contacting Moton directly. From all accounts they are very helpful. If you find out anything, please post it.
thanks

U da man Eric! Thanks....

Thanks Eric. Any more vid of your car/races?

Nope. Its winter in this part of the world. I won't race it again until April.

Lex from Moton replied to my inquiry. This is what he had to say...

<i>PABLO, SORRY FOR THE DELAY IN RESPONDING, WE HAVE BEEN COVERED UP. I DON'T RECOMMEND YOU USE A CANISTER BRACKET, WE USE TYRAPS TO SECURE THE CAN TO A ROLL CAGE. IT'S SAFER BECAUSE IF THE BRACKET HOLE IS NOT EXACT TO OUR CANISTER BODY YOU CAN TIGHTEN IT DOWN TOO MUCH AND RESTRICT THE PISTON MOVEMENT INSIDE THE CAN BODY, THIS CAN CAUSE DAMAGE TO THE CANISTER AND SHOCK. AS FAR AS THE HOSE CHANGE, WE CAN CUSTOM ORDER YOU SPECIAL LENGTH HOSE TO PUT ON. WE CAN DO THIS FOR YOU HERE. THE HOSES WOULD TAKE 2-3 WEEKS TO GET. LET ME KNOW WHAT LENGTHS YOU NEED AND I WILL ORDER THEM IF YOU WANT. THANKS FOR THE E-MAIL,
LEX CARSON</i>

Ah yes Eric, it's hard to conceive while I'm sitting here in my boardshorts and T-shirt!


Pablo, thanks for posting that. Makes good sense.

I've planned F400/R800 with Moton Clubsports, wheel ratio with this would be little harder front than rear, which should create small understeer. what is your opinion with that stiffness? seems that you guys have used rather hard front, and softer rear.

Back in 2007, when he owned it, Charles Geer used F900/R800 with the Clubsports and MO30 bars in my car with much success (Road Atlanta Lap Record in NASA GTS3). But he was running Yokohama Slicks with a LOT more grip when compared to Hoosier R6 DOTs. The car/driver was probably at about 2800-2900 lbs.

I'll let you know how it works for me once we start testing... I am sure Eric K has some good data from last season....

now after doing some research if there's decision to go for high end schock, I might go to JRZ instead of motons (it's almost the same shock expect we don't have to pay taxes and such).

btw, moton recommended following springs

springs
front 120kg/cm, (671 lb/in)
back 160kg/cm (895 lb/in)

this is similar setup like you guys have - front wheel ratio seems to be higher than in rear. such setup is then not too understeery, even though rear is softer?

Have you looked at KW shocks. They come as a complete unit (springs, etc) for each car. I bought my coil-overs (Bilstein) from Paragon and spec'd them myself. From memory, the front are 350 lbs/in and the rears are 250lbs/in (but I still have the torsion bars fitted). I also run bigger sway bars. It has made a huge difference to the cornering ability of the car. The reason I would look at the KW's next time (they were more expensive when I was doing the upgrades and I could not justify the price) are that they are bump and rebound adjustable. They also apparently have valving that still retains good ride comfort (which mine has lost).

There is a good article in either GTPorsche or the other Porsche magazine out of the UK in the last couple of months that tests a 996 with old versus new KW suspension.

Hope that this helps.

Every car is different.There isn't one best set of spring rates for these cars. Spring Rates that suit really depend on the rest of your setup, your car weight, particularly your tire sizes and types, track width, how low you run the car, how smooth the tracks you run on are, even your driving style etc. Best advice is buy a range of spring sets and try out various combos based on how the car feels. I have springs from 500s to 1200s for front and rear. Compared to what else we spend on racing , springs are relatively cheap!

I have Moton Clubsports and Tarret bars and I ran last season with F700/R900 with 225/250 slick setup which was always a nice balance at the time. I then ran F900/R1100 with 235/260 setup and found the car was quicker on lap times and responded faster. When I went squarer and larger rim setup and ran 285/305 slicks I found the front end wasn't working hard enough and the car tended to oversteer even with the front bar full stiff and rear full soft so I softened the rear to F900/R900 for some improvement. Still wasn't happy with the balance and am now at F1000/R900 which has restored the neutrality.

Best tip I read in regard to springs was to test the car with both bars disconnected. Soft or stiff, if you get the relative front to rear rates right you should be pretty close to neutral without bars. Then you use the bars to add extra roll resistance as needed and adjust steer characteristics.

I am running 800f/1000R and run 285's all the way around and have Moton cs.


Mike